Medan - Lake Toba: Day 4 Part 1

Pine & paths in Tuk Tuk

My waking hours vary, and it can get quite peculiar when I’m on vacation. Suspecting that dawn on Lake Toba would be a stunning affair, the idea of watching the sun rise, framed by the caldera and reflected by the lake waters, of course I would instinctively wake up early to catch a glimpse.

Up at 5am Western Indonesian Time, I ended up rolling in bed a while, wondering if I can sneak in an extra 15 minutes snooze, despite slowly waking up. After 15 minutes, I got up, put on a long sleeved shirts and shorts, armed with my PlayBook and camera, and went out to snap away.

Dawn in Lake Toba, facing Tomok

5.30am on Lake Toba can be quite chilly, and with the weather looking cloudy, dew all around and a slight wind-chill factor, I was wondering for a moment if I was in New Zealand or an Adelaide suburb in winter. That early, few tourists were up, and the locals took this as an opportune moment to go about their daily business quickly before everyone else peers through with curiosity.

Walking to a tip of the Tuk Tuk peninsula, it took a while before the sun rose in its full glory. It took a while, I must add, but the play of light and darkness, the multiple shades of blue and grey, pockmarked with orange, looked surreal. Just behind the caldera, the clouds started to resemble Ceiling Cat, playing hide and seek.

Dawn in Lake Toba, note cyclist & Ceiling Cat's silhouette

When the sun lit the silhouette of the caldera edge, it was all worth it. To add a human dimension to the scene, a cyclist happened to chance by at the edge, a lone traveller up to watch the sunrise with me. I’d later see him again, cycling as if he was cycling off road, the typical Caucasian adventure traveller, doing some action sports.

Moor or Lake Country, it is still Samosir Island

Breakfast was a simple affair, a fine continental buffet selection with extras of fried rice and noodles. Following which, Samwise and I were itching to go to the waterfalls nearby, an idea I embedded in him since yesterday. SSM was not in a hiking mode, hindered by his footwear, so he opted to stay back, roam around the village and look out for moped rentals.

As Samwise and I hiked across the village, towards the paddy fields and jungle beyond, we caught very interesting scenes on the way. A mother cat successfully catching a fish from the lake to feed to her kittens, and group of tourists on a small grassy knoll, taking pictures and blending in with the lambs, as a serene-looking buffalo watched us walk by, chewing cud while surveying his domain.

Looking towards Lake Toba

The map which we obtained from Tabo Cottages naturally had its limitations. We did a little trailblazing of our own through grassy fields and small settlements, and tried to figure out where the right turn after the gas station was, as there weren’t any gas stations on this island per se.

Paddy fields & placid buffalo

Eventually, we followed our instincts and our sense of orientation, with full view of the waterfall in the distance, and found a path leading through a settlement leading off the main path right after a bridge.

If you’re curious to head to the falls, follow this route: from Tuk Tuk, go straight towards ‘Tomok’ until you see an intersection that points to ‘Ambarita.’ Go left and straight on until you pass a river. At the river, you will see a small settlement and a path on a rise on your right. Turn right and go straight. At this path, you will see another junction. Turn right, go straight 150m then turn left along a dirt path. The path leads straight to the falls.

As we went along this path, we encountered a group of Americans, 2 guys and 1 girl. They turned back because the path was very steep. Samwise and I, in our gung-ho ways, waved them past as they wished us good luck. We found their ‘steep’ path, which wasn’t very steep at all, perhaps a medium incline.

Path & 'steep fall'

Onwards we went, occasionally scaling up rocks and up the slopes where we encountered another group. This time, 3 guys and 1 girl, all Germans. They told us they were turning back because the path was narrow and had a very steep fall on the side, and was obscured by vegetation and filled with rocks. Samwise asked if they saw any bodies down there. Baffled, they finally understood his humour and wished us good luck.

Waterfall, first level

We went along the path, and it was not as narrow as the Germans said it was, thought the fall did look somewhat steep. However, we heard gushing water up ahead, and that was all we needed to hear to spur us on.

We reached the first level of the falls, filled with boulders and the start of the stream that eventually leads to the road and lake. Scrambling up, we reached the second level, which had a small pool, but teasing views of the lake from behind the vegetation. Despite the large boulders covered with moss, I did not want to be outdone by Samwise scaling further up, with him noting that the fall proper was ‘just behind that rock.’

Scaling further up, using roots and vegetation as leverage, we reached the third level of the falls and were rewarded with a magnificent view. There before us was a grand gushing waterfall from up above the mountainside, a narrow knife slicing through vegetation; simply stunning.

Samwise at second level

Third level, fourt level barely discernible at top

We joked that we, the Commonwealth, succeeded, where Nato forces had to turn back.

I however, did know my limits, so when Samwise said he wanted to scale further up, against near vertical walls, I politely declined, deciding to savour the waterfall and views that were already presented to me here.

Falls leading to second level from third

Third level in all its glory

He went up, and just as I was about to soak in the pools, I heard a thud. He fell, in dramatic fashion. All in one piece despite a few bruises, he was adamant not to let nature get the better of him. I wished him good luck, telling him I’ll be heading down shortly, and that he’d be fine catching up with his usual ‘controlled tumbling’ maneuver down hills I’ve been accustomed to seeing.

Tuk Tuk peninsula from the waterfall

Samwise eventually reached the fourth level, and was rewarded with stunning views of the island and the lake, albeit even he finally reached his limitations, and decided against going further up to the headwaters.

Wtaerfall in the distance, the thin glistening sliver

As I made my way down, I took a leisurely stroll, enjoying the view from the top. Good way to start the day, I must add. Though from up there, the view of the lake did tempt me to pick up a paddle and drag a kayak out to water. Samwise, ever the adventurer, was game, when I told him of my little idea.

Up next: mopeding along the shores of Lake Toba.