Medan - Lake Toba: Day 2

Government Building, seen from the Aryaduta Medan

Medan is usually overlooked, usually associated with images of chaos, dirt, and general traffic mismanagement; nothing more than a stopover on the way to Lake Toba or the Sumatran Rainforest World Heritage Site.

With such an image in my head, and many travel forums advising that there is little to nothing to do in Medan, apart from food, I went in with a fresh slate. Felt like the modern equivalent of an explorer in the mid-18^th century vising alleged backwaters. I was ready to be surprised by this former Dutch colonial trading post.

After breakfast, SSM and I went to the Medan Railway Station to buy our tickets to Tebing Tinggi. There were only two classes of travel: Bisnis and Ekonomi. Cost us 120,000 rupiah for a one way ‘Business Class’ ticket from Medan to Tebing Tinggi.

Maimoon Palace frontage

Following which, we decided to walk around a bit, since it was just 10am Western Indonesian Time. I planned to visit the residence of the Sultan of Deli, the Maimoon Palace, a 20-25 minute walk from Lapangan Merdeka, straight down along Jalan Ahmad Yani.

This palace was built in 1888, designed by a Dutch military architect for the Sultan of Deli. The sultan is now a nominal sultan, with little power. Cost 5,000 rupiah per person per entry, and you can see what was once the elegant palace and a centre for the social scene of the Dutch plantation owners, colonial administrators and local elite.

Plaque in Dutch, palace built for the Sultan of Deli

When we were there, so was a rather large tour group. Easily 40 odd people, and they were jostling around, noisy, each clamoring to take a picture near the throne, with their children running around the hallway. In short, being your typical tourist. Yes, excuse my traveller elitism.

But once you look past all the chaos, you will notice the intricate beauty of the structure: the inlaid marble, the painted walls, the intricate carvings, and the unique blend of Malay, Dutch and Moorish architecture that permeate the verandas and rooms.

Intricate inlays on the ceiling and arches

The sultan and his family still call this palace home, and the two adjacent north and south pavilions are still their residence. If you look closely, you might even catch a glimpse of them going about their daily lives, oblivious to their visitors.

Across the street is the Grand Mosque, or Mesjid Raya. This was also designed by the same Dutch architect, with a heavy Moorish influence but Southeast Asian colour aesthetic. Entry is via donation, and don’t be alarmed by the somewhat rough old lady who mans the counter and wraps you in a sarong.

Mesjid Raya, note the Moorish elements

Architecturally, it is a simple structure, but the stained glass and ornate carvings along the portico do lend the building a very regal appearance, despite its size.

After which, we walked back to the hotel, but taking a different route. A slight detour along Jalan Mesjid, further up north and parallel to Jalan Ahmad Yani, this street does have its share of surprises. There is a simple mosque tucked away in the corner, with remnants of former handsome shopfronts and offices lining the street.

Details of facade and stained glass of Mesjid Raya

Nowadays, it should be aptly named ‘Motorcycle Street’ or ‘Mechanic Street,’ and I do not mean that in a derogatory way. Along this stretch, many mechanic workshops line the street, with motorcycles and their rides waiting their turn for a tune-up. A very human side to a rather forlorn looking city.

Further down, we saw a truly dilapidated structure. It might have once been a meeting hall, a warehouse, or a smart office building for a trading company. Now, you can see what it once was: a beautiful albeit forlorn building, dirty with cracking paint and broken windows, and remnants of former political party offices along the sides. Former glory, hidden away.

We again spent the afternoon lazing by the pool, relaxing on the terrace before we heard the start of chaos. There were two kids running around, and we decided to go out for some afternoon tea. When we came back to our terrace, the pool area was filled with kids, screaming and running and playing. Gone was our quiet afternoon by the pool.

Just as we were about to head out for dinner, Samwise called. Now, Samwise is a guy who lives life one day at a time, rarely planning ahead, and always up for an adventure. He was meant to go to Rangoon, but visa complications meant that he couldn’t board his plane.

So, with knowledge that I was in Medan about to head for Lake Toba, he called asking if he could join in. I said yes, and in a matter of hours, he was in Medan, ready to embark on an adventure.

North residential pavilion, Maimoon Palace

Throne Room, Maimoon Palace

Prayer hall, Mesjid Raya 

Minaret, seen from portico of Mesjid Raya

Jalan Masjid building

Lawyer's offices, off Jalan Masjid

Forlorn building off Jalan Ahmad Yani

Inside the forlorn building

Hall in the forlorn building

Arch detail from forlorn building, note the word
'Merdeka?' or 'Independence?'

Muslim revellers, drums and a modern interpretation
of the call to prayer

As SSM and I walked down Jalan Ahmad Yani, hoping to catch the Kesawan Square food stalls that open at 6pm, we ended up on a detour on a little bistro along the street, distracted by the sounds of drums and chantings, with revellers in their open back trucks looking very festive, gearing up for the Muslim festival of Eid Il Fitr, the end of the fasting month.

After dinner, SSM and I went to the train station to get Samwise’s train tickets, and on the way, fronting the entrance to Lapangan Merdeka, we spotted many revelers along the street, their trucks parked on the roadside, ready to celebrate.

However, what got me curious was what was blasting from their stereos. It was a rather peculiar sound.

Imagine the Muslim call to prayer, infused with trance beats. Yes, it was a pop-version of ‘Allah is Great, Allah is Great, there is no God but Allah.’

When Samwise arrived, the three of us went down to Merdeka Walk for food and drinks. As we had fried noodles and rice with a few bottles of Bintang beer, SSM got what he wished for.

When we saw the open-back trucks, he made a comment that the floats were Medan’s version of Rio’s Carnival, only without girls dancing on top. He wished to see girls covered with their burkhas and headscarves dancing on top of the floats.

Sure enough, there along Jalan Balai Kota, in front of us along Merdeka Walk, were a few trucks, with girls clad in headscarves and burkhas standing and waving at the crowds, with the disco Muslim call to prayer in the background.