Colonial Seremban

State Legislative Assembly

 I admit that I have a very curious streak in me. I will wander off, I will question, I will seek out interesting things there is to seek. I blame watching too many Indiana Jones movies when I was a kid. Back then my dream was to be an archaeologist. Now I'm, content with being an explorer and a person who's must delve a lot in past history to see how the future will result.

All that curious nature did do me well in a place like Seremban. When one mentions Seremban, one would, at least in a lay-man Malaysian context, think of Seremban siew pau and a stop along the Rawang - Seremban - Sg Gadut line.

Much to my delight, there was a treasure trove in store when visiting this place, especially for history and architecture aficionados.

Distinctive Minangkabau roof

 Up on a hill facing the city, a short walk away from the old town, and tucked away amidst lush green trees and shady roads, is the civic centre of the city.

The administrative nexus of Negeri Sembilan is contained within a small nexus, and the bureaucracy seems to be in a small, well-contained area.

Dominating but not domineering over the town is the Negeri Sembilan State Legislative Assembly. An intriguing structure on the top of the hill facing the town, one cannot escape the sight of the very distinct buffalo-horn inspired Minangkabau roof.

Royal Palace grounds

Little trivia: the forefathers of the residents of Negeri Sembilan, and the nobility, were descendants of settlers and nobility from the Padang region in Western Sumatra. These settlers were Minangkabau ethnic group, and they brought with them their distinct architectural style.

On the next hill, across the road, is the contemporary Ruler's Palace. Brick-work dominates, and it does seek to exude a certain British-sense, but undoubtedly, it does not eclipse what lies across the street, at the top of the hill.

Old State Secretariat Building

 As if the street and parks and trees conspired to present a dramatic entrance-way towards the structure before me, I was truly amazed by what I saw. Amidst the kitsch and over-ornate decorations of the palace and surrounds, lies a building that, despite it's simplicity, still exudes power.

That building, my friends, is the old State Secretariat Building. A white-wash Edwardian structure which would not look out of place in Whitehall. Less an administrative and more a palatial country home, in my opinion.

Cenotaph, Seremban

 Built in 1912 by the British, this beautiful structure is, thankfully and for the time being, not 'intruded' upon, architecturally, by larger, menacing buildings. It stands sentinel, and as a silent reminder of a past built on tin, and the importance and wealth of Seremban.

This fine piece of British colonial architecture is lovingly preserved and maintained, and thankfully, not 'defaced' by draping large flags or whathaveyou all over the facade. Sadly, part of the grounds is a make-shift parking lot, clogging the driveway with cars, due to the lack of parking at the government buildings next door.

In front of the building is a fine cenotapth, erected in memory of the Glorious Dead, and with an inscription written in old Malay.

Loggia & Porte Cochere

"Kepada Perwira2 Kita Yang Telah Gugor"

"To Our Fallen Soldiers."

Colonial/Old Malay, with the usage of '2' and the old spelling of 'gugor,' with the '2' now a redundancy for the plural 'perwira-perwira' and 'o' replaced in the current 'gugur,' but enough of my history lesson.

The structure is lovingly restored, and looks as if it was just built, and ready to welcome the great and powerful of the day. For a moment, I was living my Colonial alter-ego, an officer on an exploratory mission.

Porte Cochere

 Not imposing, neither is it grand, but the sheer beauty of the building could not possibly be overstated. Much of the public perception on heritage buildings in Malaysia is that it is ruined more often than not. Examples given would be the draping of flags all over the Sultan Abdul Samad Building in Kuala Lumpur, ruining the facade, or extensive renovations and expansions within the old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station that ruin the original harmony and airy feel of the structure.

However, with a sight like this, and many more quiet and hidden examples, I am sure public perception would change for the better, seeing how the structure is restored to its former glory.

What is it used for now? I know not, but me being me, I couldn't help but walk around and see if any doors are open, or ajar, or unlocked. 'David' from 'Prometheus' much?

 Within were wide halls and chambers, grand rooms and wide windows, bringing in a rush of light, illuminating the elegance of the structure. While downstairs seems nondescript, upstairs was indeed a delight to be seen.

The outer grand staircase leads to a loggia, behind which, doors lead on to a grand, spacious room. The interior is white-washed, the ceilings were being redone, but the wooden panels on the floor were a throwback to days gone by.

While now, most structures would be cement-based with bits of inlaid parkay, these were solid strips of wood. One would imagine a grand ballroom, were the who's who of the day intermingled, where corridors heard whispers and rooms secreted plotting.

Interior upstairs

Wide windows for natural light

Grand hall lit with natural light

Loggia, overlooking surrounding greenery

Main door & porte chochere

Grand Staircase

Exterior, Church of the Visitation

 Just down the hill, on a side road by the State Legislative Assembly, I caught the glimpse of a spire. Now, I have a thing for spires, and for religious architecture, so of course, I went over to see what was on the other side.

And lo and behold, the Roman Catholic Church of the Visitation. A simple building, but a statement nonetheless. No self-respecting major towns in the colonial days could say they are of importance without at least one grand Christian architectural piece.

But alas, when I was there, it was undergoing renovations. The pews were all gone, save for plastic chairs, but the interior reminded me of St John's Cathedral in Kuala Lumpur, being based on a simple Roman Basilica plan. For all I know, it could have been designed by the same interior architect. But for the exterior, it does look like the Mother Church building in Kuala Lumpur.

Interior, Church of the Visitation

Seremban: Easy access via train from old Kuala Lumpur Railway Station; regular commuter trains take 1 hour and 15 minutes, twice daily express trains take 1 hour.