Medan - Lake Toba: Day 3

Day 3 and the crux of our little adventure began. Having checked out of The Aryaduta, we made our way, on foot, to the Medan Railway Station. It is a fairly short 10 minute walk away, and it was not as if we had a choice. Tall SSM, me with my rucksack-turned-duffle bag and Samwise could in no way squeeze in to a becak.

'Business Plus' Medan - Tebing Tinggi

Though it didn’t stop Samwise from suggesting we get our own individual becaks and race to the railway station!

At the station, we saw a taxi rental counter, and SSM and I inquired if we could get a taxi onwards from Tebing Tinggi. Sadly, we couldn’t, as it was the Muslim festival of Eid, and no drivers were available. The lady did say we should be able to find transportation at Tebing Tinggi.

On the train, I was set for a shock. We booked business class seats, expecting nice comfortable seats, air-conditioning and the works.

Air conditioning units in carriage

We boarded a somewhat dusty looking carriage in the front, right behind the locomotive. It didn’t look like business class, I can tell you that much. The seats were not the plush individual seats but padded benches. The air-conditioning was in the shape of individual air-conditioning units, and not a centralized mechanism as I was led to believe. Windows were not so much frosted as covered with dirt and grime, obscuring what panorama we had outside.

“Must be their of Business Class,” Samwise said. “No free wifi,” he added.

Oil Palm plantation along the tracks

We got comfy in our seats and got ready for the trip ahead. As was reported by a few trailblazers before me, the trip out from Medan towards Tebing Tinggi was indeed brisk. We passed traffic along the main trunk routes, paddy fields, flood plains and a general sense of flatness. At one point, we spotted a small church, steeple prominent on the horizon, in the midst of rolling paddy fields.

Despite the carriage, it was still a nice way to travel: a feeling of space and not being confined on the road. Best of all: no traffic.

Vendors boarding at Tebing Tinggi

We left Medan at 1030 sharp, and arrived in Tebing Tinggi just after 1215. Once at Tebing Tinggi, we sought out our onward transportation. A becak driver spotted us and offered to drop us off to a driver. Problem was, it was three grown men, each with somewhat large bags, to be squeezed in a moped with attached sidecar.

Of course, the ever ingenious found a solution. I ended up pillion riding behind the driver as SSM and Samwise were squeezed in the sidecar. Not as bad as it sounds, and definitely a fun albeit shocking experience.

The driver had a brand new big black Toyota Avanza, complete with plastic wrapping on the seats. It looked as if it was fresh from the factory. He offered us 600,000 rupiah for the journey from Tebing TInggi to Parapat, a sum which we, in hindsight, should’ve bargained.

Paparazzi training on a moving moped

However, it was on a very big public holiday in Indonesia, and we expected a premium charge. Plus, it was a brand new car, so we didn’t think much of it.

The journey took us another 2 hours by road, passing paddy fields and small settlements, before we stopped at Pemantang Siantar for a late lunch. Pemantang Siantar is a large market town, the last major stopover before Lake Toba. A nexus of Batak food, we feasted on an almost impossibly varied variety of pork, from roasted and grilled to minced and diced, cooked in a variety of styles.

Our journey continued up the highlands, watching vegetation and terrain change from the fertile flood plains to lush mountain forests. Just as we were getting used to the winding road hugging the contour, we were treated to a dramatic entrance: the woods and hills parted to reveal the immense size and beauty of the lake.

The drive down along the ridge was breathtaking, hugging the shore. We saw the occasional restaurant or café hugging the ridgeline, jostling for a spot to view the lake, but it was surreal. But for the mopeds and occasional ramshackle construction, the views would not look out of place in the New Zealand fjorlands.

Samwise & the boats

We arrived at Parapat just in time for the 1530 boat to Tuk Tuk, the main tourist stop on Samosir Island. The ferry was a quaint little thing, with regular boats departing every hour from 630 to 1830 from Parapat.

On the boat, which thankfully had an open deck, we saw the breath taking scenery around us. Before us were rolling green hills, clouds hugging the peaks, the pristine beauty of the lake, all with a slight dose of the residents going about their daily life. Sitting on the top deck with unobstructed views, for a moment, I felt like Elizabeth Taylor’s 1965 Cleopatra calling to port in Tarsus.

End of Papapat peninsula, Lake Toba

Approaching Samosir Island, I noticed that a few of the ‘larger’ hotels were filled with families, children playing around and being, well, noisy kids. No bother. On Samosir Island, we went straight to Bagus Bay Homestay, which when I called, was the only place on the island where I could get rooms for the two nights we were staying.

Alas, they double booked, and despite my reservation and their confirmation, they let my room out for our second night, so we only had one night at Bagus Bay. Samwise was good for staying in a room with shared bathroom facilities. Despite that hiccup, Bagus Bay was decent, with the staff asking us multiple times if we wanted magic mushrooms.

'Mainland,' Lake Toba

After settling in, Samwise and I were itching to do stuff. SSM was happy to lounge around with his book. I wanted to go for a stroll around Tuk Tuk and get acquainted with our surroundings while Samwise wanted to go for a run. Again, they only had rudimentary maps.

Walking around, it is a quaint little village, with people going about their daily business, seeing tourists as curious onlookers, and wish you a good day as you pass by. I read of a waterfall behind Tuk Tuk, and that was reason enough for me to be itchy and search it out. After inquiries, I was told it was a good 1-2 hour walk from Tuk Tuk. Not a problem.

The three of us met again for dinner, and Samwise suggested a place I heard of and passed during my walk. He suggested it because he saw the word ‘German Bakery.’ Alas luck was not on our side: Tabo Cottages, would not be ready for us until 2 hours later, unless we wanted their pre-made roast chicken. We bid them good night, vowing to return for breakfast the next day, and sought out a few Batak restaurants in the main part of the village.

Multiple ways to consume mushrooms

We ended up at Franky’s, a small family-run establishment, which was packed to the rafters, and the owner-bartender-waiter was going helter skelter while his wife-cook-waitress took orders. Despite the chaotic scene, the family maintained a jovial atmosphere, and we spent a good part of the evening there, with dishes of succulent pork, fresh fish and pizza which had the option of ‘magic mushrooms,’ all downed with beer, tea and civet cat coffee.

Books, maps & 'shrooms

'Mainland' at dusk, from Tuk Tuk, Samosir Island

 It was a mood that set a setting for the next few days in Lake Toba.