Bangkok - The Vertical Marathon

What do you do when you and a good mate are transplanted from Europe and based, for the moment, in Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok respectively? Go up to visit him. What do you do when the two of you usually do something active when together, i.e. run along the Amstel whenever you pop by to Amsterdam? Do something athletic. And what would this friend suggest in this exotic locale? A vertical marathon.

Now, neither I nor Dr J have done a vertical marathon before. It is an annual thing at the Banyan Tree Bangkok apparently. Usually, we go up the Banyan Tree to Moon Bar for drinks on the rooftop. This time, we were supposed to, erm, use human power in place of mechanical power.

Without much thought or research, I signed up. This was 5 days before the event. The next day, the day before my flight, I decided to read up on it. This is what I discovered:

And this is why you should do research before committing

-          17^th edition

-          8 November 2015

-          Race up all 61 floors

-          1,093 steps

And of course, my male bravado and I set our sights on ‘time to beat: 6 minutes 35 seconds.’

And of course, there was a clear absence of training. Mornings, after breakfast, we’d talk about the need to train. After lunch, we’d talk about training, after a swim (which counts! We do laps!) and chill by the pool with the looming Banyan Tree Bangkok tower just in front of us. Come evening, we’d have drinks with friends, who thought us daft for doing this, and again, realize our clear absence of training.

So, the Friday before, after lunch and a swim, we decided we seriously needed to train. Now, our residence is just about 35 floors. We could not start from ground, due to security, so we side-stepped a few floors, and a confused-looking cleaner, and started from the 14^th floor.

-          First 10 floors: Yay!

-          Next 5 floors: Come on, Dr, get those long legs working

-          Last 6 floors: Why did we sprint on the first 10?

With our Friday lesson learnt, we decided to try again on Saturday, after lunch. We paced ourselves properly, kept a steady rhythm and timed ourselves. Just under 5 minutes for 20 floors. Yeap, doable. We found our pace, knew our strengths and aimed for 15 minutes to reach the top.

The Navigator and Dr J, all smiles and grins: but will we smile after 1,093 steps?

Come Sunday morning, we were excited. We woke up early, got semi-ready, walked down the street to the Banyan Tree and got our kit. Naturally, we wondered who the insane man was who did the entire thing in 6 minutes and 35 seconds. I looked around and I saw a Slavic looking fellow, in full triathlon gear. I pointed him out to Dr J. We agreed: it had to be him.

So, come the ‘countdown,’ we had a brass band playing to get us in the mood. Some people were clearly excited. Some people were nervous. Some had GoPros strapped on them. Some were colour coded. Some had no clue at all. We were in the latter.

One hiccup came up: Dr J and I were in different classes. I was in the 20 – 39 class, he in the above 40, despite him just reaching that pivotal ‘change in age class.’ We were hoping to race up together to keep our pace and support the other. We tried, and I delayed my entry to the start line, to be the last in my group and him the first in his.

It almost worked. A race warden saw me, so I got slotted in a group before. We wished each other luck as I just took it in stride while my fellow racers were all geared up. First thing in my mind: pace. Pace. PACE, YOU FOOL. I also, naturally, targeted and numbered my competitors (and yes in the blink of an eye, I turned from casual indifferent observer into a Type A Top Gun jet pilot).

GO! Went the warden. *Beep* went the buzzer. Zoom went the racers. WHOA went my head.

We ran past the brass band. I had to restrain and keep a steady pace as Bloke A – E sprinted. G – I decided to keep a steady pace. If only the brass band had a bag-pipe, I would be in heaven. There is something about the haunting deep melody of the sheep’s gut which stirs something deep down. But, alas, this brass band would do.

We ran past the lobby I knew well. We ran up a side entrance to an emergency exit I didn’t know exist. And so it began, up the stairs. You could hear the pitter patter of shoes, huffing and puffing and deep breaths. I had concerns over ventilation, but the sight of large fans blowing in to the shaft allayed my fears.

There were regular drink stops, and by the 5^th floor, I saw people clamouring for a drink. I went on, not wanting a distraction. I was not to drink until I reached the rooftop. Preferably, I wanted a vodka martini. I stayed close to the center of the shaft, imagining my body a well-oiled machine, as I used my legs to propel me up, my hands on my thighs if needed for an added push, and fighting the urge to use the handrail.

By the 10^th floor, a few of Blokes A – E were already slowing down. One already stopped. A few flights more, another was using the handrail for leverage. A few more, one was standing at a drinks stand, clearly wondering what he got himself in to.

By the 30^th floor, I heard the dread of all dreads: someone vomiting. Woe befall me if I dare step on it.

By the 40^th floor, the last few of Blokes A – E, including some of the runners ahead of me, were either slowing down, walking up, hauling themselves up or sitting on the floor, catching their breath. Random guys looked dejected or outright out of their elements.

Truth be told, the closer I got to the 50^th floor, the faster I went. There were less people now, and those at the top clearly had the summit in mind. So I picked up the pace, in anticipation for the top floor, in full knowledge and with autopilot on, that once on the top floor lift lobby, I had two more terraces and mezzanines to contend with.

And then, there it was! I saw the light, literally, as I approached the doors to the terrace. There before me was Bangkok in all her glory: Silom by my feet, the Thai sky ahead, Surya shining his rays on all. For a brief moment, I slowed down to savour, before realizing ‘NO! GET GOING!’

Shiny medal, sunny day, clear vistas of Bangkok: good combo

The last few steps, and there the finish line. It was quiet-ish. A giant cartoon mascot was urging me on, as was a very cheery cheerleader. I crossed the line with a hop, a scotch and a grin as I got my medal. I actually could go for another round!

The obligatory selfie after crossing the finishing line. It filled up fast.

With drink in hand, I looked around. A few of the guys were in their adrenaline high. I knew how they felt: I was in it. A few others looked knackered, while a few more were on the ground, exhausted beyond belief.

But this bloke takes the cake: GoPro attached to his person the whole time.

I roamed around, admiring the view I am accustomed to viewing with martini in hand. Done with the view, I went back to the finish line to wait for Dr J. Not long after, I saw him, and we congratulated ourselves at the top. Of course, we had to do the obligatory selfie to post on social media: our subtle way of guilting our friends who chose to lay in on a Sunday morning instead of running up to a rooftop bar.

Squinting, thanks to the sun, but still all smiles: all that is missing is a vodka martini and a gin + tonic

What did we win? Apart from a medal, bragging rights: we earned our drinks at Vertigo and Moon Bar no. We ran up the Banyan Tree Bangkok where most sane people would use the lift.

And they say running doesn’t bring you anywhere.

Our final time: me at 10 minutes 59 seconds, at 44/158 for my category. Dr J came in at 12 minutes 20 seconds, and 43/98 for his category. Would we do it again? I’ll let you know.I still think I could have gone faster, had I not gotten distracted.

Somehow, not as fulfilling without using the stairs up 61 floors.

2 weeks later, I took the elevator for an evening drink. 

Oh, who beat 6’35”? Mr Slavic Triathlete.

Langkawi - from a kayak

I have noticed two camps around New Year’s: those who insist on having a resolution and those who see no point in it. Again, the ‘resolutionists’ camps split in to two: the resolutions you could do without too much effort and the resolutions which seem like noble, albeit lofty endeavours. One part of my resolution was to bring a certain charity project to fruition. Noble, but requires quite the effort. The other resolution, and this I decided at dawn on 1 January itself on the terrace overlooking the bay, was to kayak to an island out there in the Andaman Sea.

New Year's morning from the villa, overlooking Ular Island in centre, Dayang Bunting Island to the left and Singa Besar Island to the right, from Teluk Baru bay

So, like any ‘sane’ man, after lunch, I left my friends at the villa, including my partner who insisted I do my silly youthful stuff as he lounges on the terrace, and went straight for the beach. Now, for the past 3 years, we made it a point to go to Langkawi as an escape from the chaos of NYE in big cities. For the past 3 years, I always sat on the same terrace, looked out at the same sea and thought of my own little pied à terre out on the horizon.

Tengah Beach, and Cenang Beach just beyond, with Mat Cincang Mountain in the background

Our villa is a 5 minute drive from Tengah Beach, and Tengah Beach is a quiet stretch of sand, away from the hustle and bustle of nearby Chenang Beach. It also has a nice assortment of watersports vendors. Naturally, I thought they had a kayak. Sadly, the nice lady in the headscarf said she didn’t have one, and the only kayak available on this side of the island is at Cenang Beach.

After a call, she got a contact, who came by and guided me to his little sports hut on the beach. There, amidst the hustle and bustle and hung over partygoers on Cenang Beach were 2 kayaks amidst an array of jet skis. “YES”! I thought to myself, as all I heard was random mumbling of his briefing while I kept daydreaming of me paddling the open sea while getting a good back workout.

He gave me a life vest, though he did not insist on me using it. My male bravado and I thought it unnecessary, so I placed it on the bow of the kayak. After getting the kayak to about knee’s length above water, I paddled out. So the adventure begins.

From the kayak, looking towards Cenang Beach

Of course, something will go awry somewhere. First came the jet skis. Good god are they a menace at times. Zipping past, thinking they own the waves. I paddled straight on, ignoring them at times, pausing at others, wary of the wake their jet skis will leave. Keeping a steady keel with numerous big wakes from over eager jetskiers is harder than it sounds.

Next came the wind. I do not mind wind. Being a regular visitor to Edinburgh and living in Newcastle, one would be very accustomed to great strong winds. Wind can add an extra challenge as you hike up Arthur’s Seat or the Northumbrian coast. Wind can also provide an extra challenge or annoying obstacle for a kayaker, depending on your point of view. Why? Because of the added waves, that’s why.

All this would not be complete without the waves coming from the sea either. Now, it has been about a decade and a half since I last formally saw physics equations, but out there, in the sea, with numerous waves and angles and pitches coming in, all I could see were wavelength equations and me trying to find the perfect angle to plough on through.

Thus, day 1 of my kayak adventure ended up with an aborted attempt to paddle from Cenang Beach to Rebak Kechil Island. I blame the waves.

Though it was not without adventure, no! As I was paddling on, I spotted this stunning yacht: “Itchy Feet.” Either a) the universe has a sense of humour and decided to caption my life, or b) the yachties on board are advertising their sea-faring lifestyle.

The yacht Itchy Feet: notice the two bicycles attached on stern

The great yacht and I made circles around each other, as I admired the boat, and the curious two bicycles attached at the back. Add on to this, a helicopter kept flying overhead, low above the water and beach.

Kayak + yacht + helicopter with the backdrop of tropical islands and open sea; makes you think of a Bond film

Now: adventurous kayaker + beautiful yacht + lone helicopter flying overhead + stunning islands and private beaches. How does that not spell out a Bond film? The soundtrack of Skyfall kept playing in my head.

One would think that I would abandon this futile attempt. Oh no. Day 2 came, and I was even more determined. First thing in the morning, I checked the clouds, the wind and the waves. Come breakfast, I sneaked a peek at the western side of the island to see the sea. Right after breakfast, I rented a kayak and set my sights on Rebak Kechil Island. That island is mine.

Rebak Kechil Island ahead, on day 2

Again, I saw the “Itchy Feet.” Again I saw the island before me. Again, the waves tried to hinder my approach. Now, the first ¾ of the way was smooth paddling. No wind, relatively calm sea in the harbour: seemed alright. And then came the sea waves. Truth be told, I was paddling too hard to compensate, so I did make a few 360 turns while correcting my bearings, but soon enough, and 25 minutes later, I reached the uninhabited island of Rebak Kechil, which for that brief moment in time, I lay claim in the name of my cat Cameron Aloysius Titus, Lord Protector and Sovereign of this little patch of sand.

The sandbanks and the yachties on the north of  'uninhabited' Rebak Kechil Island

But alas! That was not to be. The yachties claimed it first. 3 fit guys were already on the island. Still, it was big enough for 4 men. They were on the north along the sandbanks, I took the south and east with the beach facing the other islands and rocky promontory. Yes, I am making this island sound much larger than it actually is. Indulge me in my Raffles fantasy.

In the end, my New Year’s resolution ended in 1.5 days. I reached my goal of kayaking to an island in the Andaman Sea. Looking back, I don’t think it qualifies as a resolution now, considering that I was planning to do that already, and it wasn’t as ‘taxing’ as resolutions are assumed to be.

The kayak on Rebak Kechil Island looking towards the Andaman Sea and Tepor and Kentut Besar Islands

So, what was the first thing I did? Took pictures, uploaded it on Instagram and tagged it for a beach/villa/pool picture competition. I also decided to upload it on Facebook to further annoy and irritate my friends with my caption-less images. Narcissistic me also took a few selfies, just because.

'The Navigator' with his selfie on the kayak back to the main island

Not sure if I am that effective a navigator now. I can somewhat plot the path to my destination, though the route was just *slightly* circuitous thanks to circumstances. Still, a navigator who got from point A to the intended point B, with a tan and a tote filled with sand and stained with sea salt. Kayaking in the open sea off Langkawi *tick.*

From Rebak Kechil Island looking towards Langkawi Island: Tengah Beach in the middle, Cenang Beach off left

Notes: There are a few sports huts on Cenang Beach and Tengah Beach, and they cater mostly for mangrove tours, jet skis, banana boats or parasailing. The beauty of being in a small community is that everyone knows everyone else, and if you want a specific sea sport equipment and that one sport hut does not have it, ‘they have a guy.’

This specific sports hut on Cenang Beach is easily identified with the large number of jet skis parked on the beach with a (then) blue tent, and is accessible through the side street leading to the beach parking lot in front of ‘Cenang Mall.’ None of these huts have names to identify them, sadly.

Kayak rental is MYR 30/hour. Cheaper rates available for longer rentals. All the equipment are well maintained. All doubles, all open kayaks, life vests provided. Bush hat optional. Sunnies mandatory.

p.s. I would not advise taking pictures while kayaking: be mindful of waves and on-coming sea traffic

The Navigator Returns

After a long hiatus, yes, I am still here. To be honest, I was just generally preoccupied with life and a lot of movement between now and my previous post, one of the major ones being my momentary move back to the UK. For now at least, I am based back in Kuala Lumpur, and this time I better start updating the entries here.

So, a few highlights for the coming weeks: my sojourns in Europe and the few random trips I took around Southeast Asia which I meant to but never ended up writing about, among them a Bangkok from a different height, accidentally stumbling on the Camino de Santiago/St Jean Pied de Port in Antwerp and my first foray in to China.

But this time, we’ll start with something closer to home: Langkawi by kayak.

p.s. I now have an Instagram account! Look me up @jasonanom for the random selection of sights and cats.

Phuket - Part 3 - Horse Riding & Capes

A week in the Amanpuri Phuket does sound like heaven. Sure, you can laze around in your massive villa, enjoy skinny dipping regardless of the time of day in your private pool or get a tan on a private beach shared with one other ultra-luxury resort. Yet there are times when you just need to get out and explore.

Andaman Sea from the Amanpuri facing Bangtao Beach

Which is exactly what I did on occasion during my stay, as I tend to get cabin fever being cooped up too long regardless of the luxurious surroundings. I may enjoy my creature comforts, but I still have to explore a bit.

So, being in close proximity to the resort enclave of Laguna, on Bang Tao Beach, surely there must be a few activities geared towards their target clientele. A friend told me to sample horse riding on the beach, and one of two facilities is located right at the entrance to the Laguna enclave: the Phuket International Horse Club.

Prices were fair for one hour, one and a half hours and two hour rides, with the one hour ride at THB 900, one and a half hour ride at THB 1,500 and two hours at THB 1,800. My first ride was the one hour option, as I wanted to reacquaint myself with riding.

This was in the late afternoon, just before the rainclouds were rolling in and the midday sun all but absent. Usually, a booking is required but considering this was the beginning of the monsoon season, ergo the low season, I just went in and it was only me and a couple on this fine morning.

Trooper and his sense of humour

My horse, Trooper, is a beautiful young chestnut steed, with an occasionally lazy trot until he reaches the beach, then he gets excited. With my trainer-cum-assistant, we went on a slow, leisurely stroll from the stables along the pavement along Lagoon Road, past green spaces, an elephant riding facility and a gated residential community before passing through the Dusit Thani Laguna Resort side road that led straight to the beach.

View from Trooper and another set of hooves on sand

And then the fun started. We trotted up and down the beach, occasionally going on a full gallop as a light drizzle came down. My white linen shirt was already wet from sweat so the small bits of accumulated rainfall did not make too much of a difference. I got my balance on, foothold proper and thigh ‘grip’ right while brushing up on my one-two-one riding technique.

Sadly, I could not use my wide-brim hat as, for insurance purposes I had to use a riding helmet. For my ride the next day in the late afternoon for the sunset ride, I also learnt my lesson not to use hiking shoes and should have asked for proper riding boots.

The sunset ride the next day was fun. I set off at 1630 for a one-half hour ride, with riding boots on and opted against riding pants despite the slight saddle burn from using shorts the day before. I noticed two couples this time, an elegant middle aged couple finishing their ride as I went to the beach looking at one with the horse, and another couple on the beach: the guy looked like a proper polo player, comfortable on his ride with quintessential polo shirt with collar upturned as his partner was walking next to her horse, perhaps not used to having her legs so wide astride the saddle.

Against the setting sun, a rider rides along

Trotting along the beach, we encountered young girls who were mesmerized by the horse as I casually rode past them, curious beach bar goers taking pictures of a rider against the sunset and managed to maintain my balance and keep the horse calm as an overly excited dog almost spooked Trooper.

Considering I was a returning client, the manager gave me a 10% discount on the ride and naturally I went for a two hour ride the next day, just to get my fill.

Promthep Cape, southern tip, Phuket

Formations and 'sculpture,' tip of Promthep Cape

But in between the rides, which SSM did not participate in considering he is not a fan of horse riding, we did explore the island a bit. We drove down the coast from Surin down to Promthep Cape, were I rediscovered the beauty of the cape, and discovered a little known path which led straight to the southern tip of Phuket, with sacred trees and rock formations that look like fairy castles, and a few altars to the local deities.

Pomegranate Martini & Apple-Lemongrass Martini, Zazada Bar

And of course this being an island, we had to enjoy at least a drink or two at a beach bar, though we restricted this to establishments with close proximity to the Amanpuri. Surin Beach has a nice selection of beach bars, with Catch Beach Club and Zazada Beach Club being my two favourites, Zazada especially with their happy hour. Surin also happens to be a favourite with weddings, with 3 wedding ceremonies during our week long stay.

Sunset from Catch Beach Club, Surin Beach, Phuket

My first trip to Phuket without diving didn’t feel that odd. It also did not feel like too much of a waste by staying within close proximity to the resort and doing stuff other that lounging, tanning and just lazing at the villa.

Phuket International Riding Club, Lagoon Rd, Laguna Phuket, Bangtao Beach, Phuket; +66 81 968 3187, last ride at 1730 for sunset ride. Look for the two horse statues on the left before the Laguna ‘gate.’

Instagram: @jasonanom

Phuket - Part 2 - Amanpuri Phuket

With a week at a villa in the Amanpuri, what is one to do? Especially during the off-diving season when the sea is all choppy with whitecaps and rain might just kill whatever plans you have for a decent dive? Phuket is after all more than just sun, sand and sea.

Caution: Amanpuri Phuket

There is also that other ‘S’: spa. Our first experience with Aman products was the amenities in our villa, and we came to love the insect repellant, infused with lemon grass, which we bought in abundance in the end.

The Spa at the Amanpuri is set across the road from the main lobby pavilions, with numerous smaller pavilions and side rooms for complete privacy during treatments while still enjoying beautiful views of the Andaman Sea and Bangtao Beach.

Entrance to the Aman Spa, overlooking Bangtao Beach

It feels very zen-like, very calming, and very decadent, especially with the chocolate spa treatments. Yes, you can actually lick a layer of rich dark (or milk if you prefer) chocolate off your body, if you so desire. Well, that last part I say with qualification: I assume you can do it.

Pavilions centered around fountains, Aman Spa

The Library is just beautiful. One of the larger resort libraries I have seen and a fine one in its own building. While not as bright and airy as the library at the Four Seasons Langkawi, it still boasts an impressive collection and skylight with layers of teak furniture and dark wood throughout.

Library, Amanpuri Phuket

To add in the decadence, even if you are the only person in the library, they will still furnish the place, extremely discreetly, with a platter of fresh fruits. They come and go as quietly as cats. The two areas of the library: the reading room and the lounge are partitioned in such a way there is privacy yet openness to the space.

Lounge, Library, Amanpuri Phuket

Tea Pavilion by the main pool, Amanpuri Phuket

What made the stay all the more interesting would be the afternoon tea served in the tea pavilion, daily at 4pm. The tea pavilion overlooks the pool and Pansea Beach. It has a nice selection of savory Thai snacks that look like mini crepes with filling made in a hot pan with options of tea, lemongrass being my favourite. You can recline on the veranda or terrace on comfy sofas while fanning yourself lounging around.

But of course all this decadence and luxury may make some people, me included, feel a little sluggish and a bit too relaxed. This is where the fitness centre comes in. It is located on top of the hill on the top of the peninsula and is quite a trek and a warm-up if you decide to walk, hike or jog from your villa. Hence, the buggy ride to the fitness centre might just make you guilty enough to work out that bit more extra.

View from the treadmill, Amanpuri Phuket

Treadmills overlooking Andaman Sea, Amanpuri Phuket

From the outside, it looks unimposing, but this is the hallmark of Aman Resorts: understated luxury. Once you enter, the view from the top just draws you in to the machines. Good machines, well maintained, with patrons who know how to rerack their weights. Yes, unracked messy weights are a pet peeve. The view of the sea from the treadmills or cycle machines can make you work out longer than usual as you enjoy the view.

Then you realize the fitness centre is actually spread over two levels. There is a studio with funky stretch machines, a yoga platform and, if something a little more local is down your alley, a very wide, open and well-appointed Muay Thai gym that opens out to the green and sea below. Even the toilets feel luxurious, but then again, this is the Amanpuri, so why not make the mundane that much more elegantly luxurious without being garishly ostentatious?

Now that you had your fill of treatments, readings and tea rounded up with a decent workout to create a furnace to burn all that delicious food cooked by your in-house chef or savoured outside working as the perfect fuel, surely that is enough to satisfy a stay-in without ever leaving the gates of this Versailles?

Pansea Beach, Amanpuri Phuket

Pool, Pansea Beach, Amanpuri Phuket

Well, there is more: Pansea Beach. It is a small beach, shared by only one other equally luxurious resort, The Surin Phuket. There are a few cabanas, another pool, wait staff that somehow materialize just when you realize you want something and a sports facility. Kayaking was so tempting but there was no way I could kayak in the occasional rain. Ultimate Frisbee was an option, as was beach volleyball. In short, the usual beach sports, but somehow not as enjoyable without more people. It was definitely a private beach for private, individual sports (like kayaking) or a retreat from the masses.

Sunset, Sea and Saddle: horse riding on Bangtao Beach

Which makes you wonder: would I ever want to leave my villa with my own infinity pool where I can skinny dip as and when I want, or soak in the decadence the hotel has to offer? When there is the option to explore the island a bit and enjoy a round of horse riding, one does need to go out and get in with ‘reality’ once in a while. That is a story for later.

Phuket - Part 1 - Amanpuri Phuket

[Making a slight modification to the site now: will be doing reports on both the trip and the actual accommodation. I promise I will still be a decent read.] 

View from Qatar Airways to Malaysia Airlines A333 and Air France B772

A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to stay at one of the most luxurious and self-indulgent resorts in Southeast Asia: the Amanpuri Phuket. Yes, I know, Phuket does not exactly give the image of ultra-luxury and seclusion when what come to mind are ‘beached whales’ or fratboys going on a ruckus, but those are the common beaches. The Amanpuri is so set apart from the rest, physically and in other respects, you need not rub shoulders with those you do not want to, apart from at the airport.

The Amanpuri is located on Pansea Beach, just the next cove and beach up from Surin Beach, itself a nice quiet upmarket spot, and right before Bangtao Beach, famously known as the Laguna resorts area.

When I went to Phuket, it was conveniently the day after the military announced the coup, on 22 May. My friend John in Chiang Rai told me of how his area was under heavy military surveillance and whatnot, including armed guards just down his street. Another friend R had plans to go to Pattaya but eventually changed his mind due to the turmoil in Bangkok just up the road. Both of them told me to be cautious. I joked about how I had a horse and a boat ready to whisk me off down south and across the border to Langkawi in the event.

Loo with a view. I promise this is not from the passenger seat.

I flew on Qatar Airways, and I must admit, if there was an award for best airplane toilet, they would win it. As you go about your business, you get a view out the window in their A330. Not your usual blocked out window with foldable baby-table in the way. I admit I went to the loo twice, just because.

Upon arrival at Phuket, it felt like business as usual. The new international terminal was under construction and there were a few modifications to the arrivals corridor from my previous visit. Inside immigration, one would be forgiven if you did not know a coup just occurred: no heightened security and the immigration personnel were trainees.

On approach to Phuket International Airport, Koh Naka in the middle

We had a limo pick-up in a BMW 7 Series, and that was the start of my ‘Fall of Versailles’ routine. Completely oblivious by design or intention, I did not notice any heightened security, no army presence, nothing to indicate a country in transition. The only hint were Thai radio stations playing patriotic tunes with a military beat that would not be out of place in any military parade.

Granted, I was in Bangkok the month before and even then, you could feel a slight tension in the air despite feeling safe in the knowledge that if you stay away from trouble, it will not find you. Then again, Phuket is so far removed from the tug of war up in the Centre, they would rather focus on their tourism and daily lives than ideological altercations.

Reception LobbyPavilion, Amanpuri Phuket

At the Amanpuri, it really did feel as if you were entering a different world, this time purposely designed to seclude and remove you from everything. Amanpuri does literally mean ‘Palace of Peace,’ being the combination of the Malay-Balinese words ‘Aman’ meaning ‘peace’ and ‘puri’ meaning ‘palace.’ There was a slip road past Surin Beach to the left and no signage. No grand entranceway but rather a quiet, tree-lined and canopy-shaded road that gives the sense of arrival, and once you are there, you know you arrived. A palace to set to seclude from the hoi polloi. Versailles much?

Amanpuri main pool, restaurant sala to the left, bar on the right

The lobby consists of reception pavilions, tea and dining pavilions, library and meeting pavilions, all centered around a pool and courtyard that leads down stairs towards Pansea Beach and the Andaman Sea. You could either walk around to your villa, or in my case, be whisked in a very nice buggy; not your usual golf or airport buggy but one which looks like a Mini Cooper with the doors taken off and stretched.

Andaman Sea and stairs to Pansea Beach, Amanpuri Phuket

We stayed in the residential part of the Amanpuri, on the north side of the peninsula facing Bangtao Beach and Laguna. Going up and down the terrain of the peninsula, all I could think of was the warm-up to the gym on the top of the hill on the top of the peninsula.

Reception terrace, Amanpuri Villa

Top: Lounge Sala roof, 2nd floor, 1st floor

Dining Sala

At our villa, we were welcomed by our housekeeper, our chef and the hotel general manager at the villa reception area. Smiles abound and a great welcome, and truth be told, I was slowly being converted in to a fan, wait, an Amanjunkie.

Floor-to-ceiling windows, Villa room, Amanpuri

King-size bed, Villa room, Amanpuri

Our villa is a 7 bedroom villa. Yes, 7 bedroom villa, spread over four floors. The top floor was the dining and lounge pavilions or ‘salas.’ The second floor was the garage, kitchen and 3 rooms. The first floor had 4 rooms. The ground floor had the infinity pool which is nicer than the ‘main’ pool, reception area, massage deck, media pavilion and help staff quarters. Yes, the help stay on site. And there is a lift if the stairs feel like a chore.

Bath and door to shower, Villa, Amanpuri

Vanity, Villa, Amanpuri

The rooms are spaciously appointed, with floor-to-ceiling windows, extremely comfortable king bed, lounge bed, 2 walk-in wardrobes and a toilet, bath and shower with doors that open out to the terrace outside.

Walk-in wardrobe, Villa, Amanpuri

Our one week stay has just begun, and as luck would have it, my diving plans went south when the sea was not quite agreeable. Oh well, nothing much to do apart from staying at the hotel or explore what Phuket has to offer, which included very good horse riding just down the beach. Our housekeeper Kung Ae and chef Kung On made sure our stay was memorable.

Infinity pool overlooking Andaman Sea, Villa, Amanpuri

Hello Kitten, Amanpuri

And so did 2 kittens that entertained us throughout.

Airport transfer between Phuket International Airport and the Surin/Bangtao area is THB 700 one way, either going up or going down. As my previous visit, I had a car. If intending to stay in Phuket for more than 3 nights and you plan to explore, rent a car as the taxis are controlled, have no meters and are ridiculously expensive. Andaman Car Rental is a good bet. I personally do not recommend small motorcycles or mopeds, lots of hills.

p.s. look for me on Instagram @jasonanom