Phuket - Part 1 - Amanpuri Phuket

[Making a slight modification to the site now: will be doing reports on both the trip and the actual accommodation. I promise I will still be a decent read.] 

View from Qatar Airways to Malaysia Airlines A333 and Air France B772

A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to stay at one of the most luxurious and self-indulgent resorts in Southeast Asia: the Amanpuri Phuket. Yes, I know, Phuket does not exactly give the image of ultra-luxury and seclusion when what come to mind are ‘beached whales’ or fratboys going on a ruckus, but those are the common beaches. The Amanpuri is so set apart from the rest, physically and in other respects, you need not rub shoulders with those you do not want to, apart from at the airport.

The Amanpuri is located on Pansea Beach, just the next cove and beach up from Surin Beach, itself a nice quiet upmarket spot, and right before Bangtao Beach, famously known as the Laguna resorts area.

When I went to Phuket, it was conveniently the day after the military announced the coup, on 22 May. My friend John in Chiang Rai told me of how his area was under heavy military surveillance and whatnot, including armed guards just down his street. Another friend R had plans to go to Pattaya but eventually changed his mind due to the turmoil in Bangkok just up the road. Both of them told me to be cautious. I joked about how I had a horse and a boat ready to whisk me off down south and across the border to Langkawi in the event.

Loo with a view. I promise this is not from the passenger seat.

I flew on Qatar Airways, and I must admit, if there was an award for best airplane toilet, they would win it. As you go about your business, you get a view out the window in their A330. Not your usual blocked out window with foldable baby-table in the way. I admit I went to the loo twice, just because.

Upon arrival at Phuket, it felt like business as usual. The new international terminal was under construction and there were a few modifications to the arrivals corridor from my previous visit. Inside immigration, one would be forgiven if you did not know a coup just occurred: no heightened security and the immigration personnel were trainees.

On approach to Phuket International Airport, Koh Naka in the middle

We had a limo pick-up in a BMW 7 Series, and that was the start of my ‘Fall of Versailles’ routine. Completely oblivious by design or intention, I did not notice any heightened security, no army presence, nothing to indicate a country in transition. The only hint were Thai radio stations playing patriotic tunes with a military beat that would not be out of place in any military parade.

Granted, I was in Bangkok the month before and even then, you could feel a slight tension in the air despite feeling safe in the knowledge that if you stay away from trouble, it will not find you. Then again, Phuket is so far removed from the tug of war up in the Centre, they would rather focus on their tourism and daily lives than ideological altercations.

Reception LobbyPavilion, Amanpuri Phuket

At the Amanpuri, it really did feel as if you were entering a different world, this time purposely designed to seclude and remove you from everything. Amanpuri does literally mean ‘Palace of Peace,’ being the combination of the Malay-Balinese words ‘Aman’ meaning ‘peace’ and ‘puri’ meaning ‘palace.’ There was a slip road past Surin Beach to the left and no signage. No grand entranceway but rather a quiet, tree-lined and canopy-shaded road that gives the sense of arrival, and once you are there, you know you arrived. A palace to set to seclude from the hoi polloi. Versailles much?

Amanpuri main pool, restaurant sala to the left, bar on the right

The lobby consists of reception pavilions, tea and dining pavilions, library and meeting pavilions, all centered around a pool and courtyard that leads down stairs towards Pansea Beach and the Andaman Sea. You could either walk around to your villa, or in my case, be whisked in a very nice buggy; not your usual golf or airport buggy but one which looks like a Mini Cooper with the doors taken off and stretched.

Andaman Sea and stairs to Pansea Beach, Amanpuri Phuket

We stayed in the residential part of the Amanpuri, on the north side of the peninsula facing Bangtao Beach and Laguna. Going up and down the terrain of the peninsula, all I could think of was the warm-up to the gym on the top of the hill on the top of the peninsula.

Reception terrace, Amanpuri Villa

Top: Lounge Sala roof, 2nd floor, 1st floor

Dining Sala

At our villa, we were welcomed by our housekeeper, our chef and the hotel general manager at the villa reception area. Smiles abound and a great welcome, and truth be told, I was slowly being converted in to a fan, wait, an Amanjunkie.

Floor-to-ceiling windows, Villa room, Amanpuri

King-size bed, Villa room, Amanpuri

Our villa is a 7 bedroom villa. Yes, 7 bedroom villa, spread over four floors. The top floor was the dining and lounge pavilions or ‘salas.’ The second floor was the garage, kitchen and 3 rooms. The first floor had 4 rooms. The ground floor had the infinity pool which is nicer than the ‘main’ pool, reception area, massage deck, media pavilion and help staff quarters. Yes, the help stay on site. And there is a lift if the stairs feel like a chore.

Bath and door to shower, Villa, Amanpuri

Vanity, Villa, Amanpuri

The rooms are spaciously appointed, with floor-to-ceiling windows, extremely comfortable king bed, lounge bed, 2 walk-in wardrobes and a toilet, bath and shower with doors that open out to the terrace outside.

Walk-in wardrobe, Villa, Amanpuri

Our one week stay has just begun, and as luck would have it, my diving plans went south when the sea was not quite agreeable. Oh well, nothing much to do apart from staying at the hotel or explore what Phuket has to offer, which included very good horse riding just down the beach. Our housekeeper Kung Ae and chef Kung On made sure our stay was memorable.

Infinity pool overlooking Andaman Sea, Villa, Amanpuri

Hello Kitten, Amanpuri

And so did 2 kittens that entertained us throughout.

Airport transfer between Phuket International Airport and the Surin/Bangtao area is THB 700 one way, either going up or going down. As my previous visit, I had a car. If intending to stay in Phuket for more than 3 nights and you plan to explore, rent a car as the taxis are controlled, have no meters and are ridiculously expensive. Andaman Car Rental is a good bet. I personally do not recommend small motorcycles or mopeds, lots of hills.

p.s. look for me on Instagram @jasonanom