Phuket - Part 2 - Amanpuri Phuket

With a week at a villa in the Amanpuri, what is one to do? Especially during the off-diving season when the sea is all choppy with whitecaps and rain might just kill whatever plans you have for a decent dive? Phuket is after all more than just sun, sand and sea.

Caution: Amanpuri Phuket

There is also that other ‘S’: spa. Our first experience with Aman products was the amenities in our villa, and we came to love the insect repellant, infused with lemon grass, which we bought in abundance in the end.

The Spa at the Amanpuri is set across the road from the main lobby pavilions, with numerous smaller pavilions and side rooms for complete privacy during treatments while still enjoying beautiful views of the Andaman Sea and Bangtao Beach.

Entrance to the Aman Spa, overlooking Bangtao Beach

It feels very zen-like, very calming, and very decadent, especially with the chocolate spa treatments. Yes, you can actually lick a layer of rich dark (or milk if you prefer) chocolate off your body, if you so desire. Well, that last part I say with qualification: I assume you can do it.

Pavilions centered around fountains, Aman Spa

The Library is just beautiful. One of the larger resort libraries I have seen and a fine one in its own building. While not as bright and airy as the library at the Four Seasons Langkawi, it still boasts an impressive collection and skylight with layers of teak furniture and dark wood throughout.

Library, Amanpuri Phuket

To add in the decadence, even if you are the only person in the library, they will still furnish the place, extremely discreetly, with a platter of fresh fruits. They come and go as quietly as cats. The two areas of the library: the reading room and the lounge are partitioned in such a way there is privacy yet openness to the space.

Lounge, Library, Amanpuri Phuket

Tea Pavilion by the main pool, Amanpuri Phuket

What made the stay all the more interesting would be the afternoon tea served in the tea pavilion, daily at 4pm. The tea pavilion overlooks the pool and Pansea Beach. It has a nice selection of savory Thai snacks that look like mini crepes with filling made in a hot pan with options of tea, lemongrass being my favourite. You can recline on the veranda or terrace on comfy sofas while fanning yourself lounging around.

But of course all this decadence and luxury may make some people, me included, feel a little sluggish and a bit too relaxed. This is where the fitness centre comes in. It is located on top of the hill on the top of the peninsula and is quite a trek and a warm-up if you decide to walk, hike or jog from your villa. Hence, the buggy ride to the fitness centre might just make you guilty enough to work out that bit more extra.

View from the treadmill, Amanpuri Phuket

Treadmills overlooking Andaman Sea, Amanpuri Phuket

From the outside, it looks unimposing, but this is the hallmark of Aman Resorts: understated luxury. Once you enter, the view from the top just draws you in to the machines. Good machines, well maintained, with patrons who know how to rerack their weights. Yes, unracked messy weights are a pet peeve. The view of the sea from the treadmills or cycle machines can make you work out longer than usual as you enjoy the view.

Then you realize the fitness centre is actually spread over two levels. There is a studio with funky stretch machines, a yoga platform and, if something a little more local is down your alley, a very wide, open and well-appointed Muay Thai gym that opens out to the green and sea below. Even the toilets feel luxurious, but then again, this is the Amanpuri, so why not make the mundane that much more elegantly luxurious without being garishly ostentatious?

Now that you had your fill of treatments, readings and tea rounded up with a decent workout to create a furnace to burn all that delicious food cooked by your in-house chef or savoured outside working as the perfect fuel, surely that is enough to satisfy a stay-in without ever leaving the gates of this Versailles?

Pansea Beach, Amanpuri Phuket

Pool, Pansea Beach, Amanpuri Phuket

Well, there is more: Pansea Beach. It is a small beach, shared by only one other equally luxurious resort, The Surin Phuket. There are a few cabanas, another pool, wait staff that somehow materialize just when you realize you want something and a sports facility. Kayaking was so tempting but there was no way I could kayak in the occasional rain. Ultimate Frisbee was an option, as was beach volleyball. In short, the usual beach sports, but somehow not as enjoyable without more people. It was definitely a private beach for private, individual sports (like kayaking) or a retreat from the masses.

Sunset, Sea and Saddle: horse riding on Bangtao Beach

Which makes you wonder: would I ever want to leave my villa with my own infinity pool where I can skinny dip as and when I want, or soak in the decadence the hotel has to offer? When there is the option to explore the island a bit and enjoy a round of horse riding, one does need to go out and get in with ‘reality’ once in a while. That is a story for later.

Phuket - Part 1 - Amanpuri Phuket

[Making a slight modification to the site now: will be doing reports on both the trip and the actual accommodation. I promise I will still be a decent read.] 

View from Qatar Airways to Malaysia Airlines A333 and Air France B772

A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to stay at one of the most luxurious and self-indulgent resorts in Southeast Asia: the Amanpuri Phuket. Yes, I know, Phuket does not exactly give the image of ultra-luxury and seclusion when what come to mind are ‘beached whales’ or fratboys going on a ruckus, but those are the common beaches. The Amanpuri is so set apart from the rest, physically and in other respects, you need not rub shoulders with those you do not want to, apart from at the airport.

The Amanpuri is located on Pansea Beach, just the next cove and beach up from Surin Beach, itself a nice quiet upmarket spot, and right before Bangtao Beach, famously known as the Laguna resorts area.

When I went to Phuket, it was conveniently the day after the military announced the coup, on 22 May. My friend John in Chiang Rai told me of how his area was under heavy military surveillance and whatnot, including armed guards just down his street. Another friend R had plans to go to Pattaya but eventually changed his mind due to the turmoil in Bangkok just up the road. Both of them told me to be cautious. I joked about how I had a horse and a boat ready to whisk me off down south and across the border to Langkawi in the event.

Loo with a view. I promise this is not from the passenger seat.

I flew on Qatar Airways, and I must admit, if there was an award for best airplane toilet, they would win it. As you go about your business, you get a view out the window in their A330. Not your usual blocked out window with foldable baby-table in the way. I admit I went to the loo twice, just because.

Upon arrival at Phuket, it felt like business as usual. The new international terminal was under construction and there were a few modifications to the arrivals corridor from my previous visit. Inside immigration, one would be forgiven if you did not know a coup just occurred: no heightened security and the immigration personnel were trainees.

On approach to Phuket International Airport, Koh Naka in the middle

We had a limo pick-up in a BMW 7 Series, and that was the start of my ‘Fall of Versailles’ routine. Completely oblivious by design or intention, I did not notice any heightened security, no army presence, nothing to indicate a country in transition. The only hint were Thai radio stations playing patriotic tunes with a military beat that would not be out of place in any military parade.

Granted, I was in Bangkok the month before and even then, you could feel a slight tension in the air despite feeling safe in the knowledge that if you stay away from trouble, it will not find you. Then again, Phuket is so far removed from the tug of war up in the Centre, they would rather focus on their tourism and daily lives than ideological altercations.

Reception LobbyPavilion, Amanpuri Phuket

At the Amanpuri, it really did feel as if you were entering a different world, this time purposely designed to seclude and remove you from everything. Amanpuri does literally mean ‘Palace of Peace,’ being the combination of the Malay-Balinese words ‘Aman’ meaning ‘peace’ and ‘puri’ meaning ‘palace.’ There was a slip road past Surin Beach to the left and no signage. No grand entranceway but rather a quiet, tree-lined and canopy-shaded road that gives the sense of arrival, and once you are there, you know you arrived. A palace to set to seclude from the hoi polloi. Versailles much?

Amanpuri main pool, restaurant sala to the left, bar on the right

The lobby consists of reception pavilions, tea and dining pavilions, library and meeting pavilions, all centered around a pool and courtyard that leads down stairs towards Pansea Beach and the Andaman Sea. You could either walk around to your villa, or in my case, be whisked in a very nice buggy; not your usual golf or airport buggy but one which looks like a Mini Cooper with the doors taken off and stretched.

Andaman Sea and stairs to Pansea Beach, Amanpuri Phuket

We stayed in the residential part of the Amanpuri, on the north side of the peninsula facing Bangtao Beach and Laguna. Going up and down the terrain of the peninsula, all I could think of was the warm-up to the gym on the top of the hill on the top of the peninsula.

Reception terrace, Amanpuri Villa

Top: Lounge Sala roof, 2nd floor, 1st floor

Dining Sala

At our villa, we were welcomed by our housekeeper, our chef and the hotel general manager at the villa reception area. Smiles abound and a great welcome, and truth be told, I was slowly being converted in to a fan, wait, an Amanjunkie.

Floor-to-ceiling windows, Villa room, Amanpuri

King-size bed, Villa room, Amanpuri

Our villa is a 7 bedroom villa. Yes, 7 bedroom villa, spread over four floors. The top floor was the dining and lounge pavilions or ‘salas.’ The second floor was the garage, kitchen and 3 rooms. The first floor had 4 rooms. The ground floor had the infinity pool which is nicer than the ‘main’ pool, reception area, massage deck, media pavilion and help staff quarters. Yes, the help stay on site. And there is a lift if the stairs feel like a chore.

Bath and door to shower, Villa, Amanpuri

Vanity, Villa, Amanpuri

The rooms are spaciously appointed, with floor-to-ceiling windows, extremely comfortable king bed, lounge bed, 2 walk-in wardrobes and a toilet, bath and shower with doors that open out to the terrace outside.

Walk-in wardrobe, Villa, Amanpuri

Our one week stay has just begun, and as luck would have it, my diving plans went south when the sea was not quite agreeable. Oh well, nothing much to do apart from staying at the hotel or explore what Phuket has to offer, which included very good horse riding just down the beach. Our housekeeper Kung Ae and chef Kung On made sure our stay was memorable.

Infinity pool overlooking Andaman Sea, Villa, Amanpuri

Hello Kitten, Amanpuri

And so did 2 kittens that entertained us throughout.

Airport transfer between Phuket International Airport and the Surin/Bangtao area is THB 700 one way, either going up or going down. As my previous visit, I had a car. If intending to stay in Phuket for more than 3 nights and you plan to explore, rent a car as the taxis are controlled, have no meters and are ridiculously expensive. Andaman Car Rental is a good bet. I personally do not recommend small motorcycles or mopeds, lots of hills.

p.s. look for me on Instagram @jasonanom