Myanmar - Bagan - Day 2 Part 2

Entrance to the Bagan Archaeological Zone requires a pass, and it can be easily obtained at the airport. Entrance fee is USD 15 or 15 Euros, which may be steep especially when compared to the Angkor sites but bear in mind, this pass is valid for 5 days. At first I wondered what utility it had as no one checked and I was a bit cautious to give money to a cause that might or might not use the money for restoration and preservation, until I was at the last temple to view the dramatic sunset over the Bagan Plains, where a security officer marveled at the high quality pass I got from the airport as opposed to the flimsy paper variety usually found in town.

Top terrace, Pulzedi Stupa, Bagan Plains

So, after an early morning on the top of a stupa surveying the Bagan Plains at sunrise, taking in a 360* view of the place, I was approached, as you do in places like these, by a trader.

There I was, perhaps his third visitor, on top of a stupa at dawn. He offered to take a picture of me with the Plains as a backdrop, and the seasoned traveller within told me he was up to something. Of course, he wanted me to look at his sand paintings, a specialty in the region. What piqued my interest was that he was not pushy, but asked politely, to look at his paintings.

Granted, if he just sat there and sold someone else’s paintings, I might not have been interested, but he showed me how it was done, explaining the intricate process in getting a sand-base against the cloth, and showing me a painting he was in the process of making. Even more, he did not push for the expensive large one but a more practical one. After some bargaining, a simple 30 x 60 cm sand painting of Bagan at sunrise set me back KYT 8,000. Well worth it, especially with its craftsmanship.

Next on the list were even more stupas and pagodas, and this in particular was a small rectangular ‘library’ a short drive away, noted for carvings of animals on the wall and a reclining Buddha inside. This was quickly followed by another collection of stupas and ‘libraries,’ some of which were gated and closed.

Htilominlo Temple, Bagan

This was quickly followed by the grand Htilominlo Pagoda, built in 1218, still in use, still in multiple stages of ‘restoration,’ and surrounded by a ‘market’ in the courtyard. I carefully walked in, minding the devotees and worshipers who were there to pray, some individually, others being led in to the multiple cells by monks clad in burgundy-coloured robes, and set out to explore.

Interior, with Buddha image and niches, Htilominlo Pagoda

The Htilominlo was built in the 13^th century and is one of the tallest around, at 46 meters. Walking around the perimeter, and inside the corridors, natural light streams in, illuminating the numerous Buddha statues and a few murals on the walls, with niches about against the main wall facing the windows, empty and waiting for votive Buddha statues.

However, it is here that you can see the reservations that UNESCO has in giving the Bagan Archeological Zone a World Heritage Site status. While yes, it is breath taking and beautiful, the level of preservation does raise questions. The old and the new get blurred together. The interior is white washed and you can see outlines of new murals, which when compared to the 12^th century ones I will see later, are similar by quite a stretch. Slap and sketch, rather than imitation and intricateness to original styles seem to be the order of preservation here.

Restoration work, Htilominlo Temple, Bagan

While majestic, the interior somehow does not have the same aura or effect of a majestic building built during the glory days of indigenous Southeast Asian empires. The exterior though, was being preserved, and the method of stucco and plaster seems to match the originals in other surrounding structures. The age old ‘Ship of Theseus’ paradox comes to mind.

12th century murals, unknown 'library'

Then there was yet another library down the road, but this, I was assured, was worth the pop, as inside are well preserved murals of the Buddhist jatakas, or stories and fables, dating from the 12^th century. Thankfully, I brought a flashlight with me, as the interior is dark and flash photography is forbidden. Shining my torchlight against the walls, the murals popped out, colours somewhat faded over the centuries but still a sight.

12th century murals, unknown 'library'

This library though, was taken care of by a trader, who aptly had a small ‘stall’ outside selling books. Most of these books are bootleg copies, easily purchased wholesale from a printer in New Bagan. Amidst copies of books, I opted for that old tale of Empire in the East: Burmese Days by George Orwell. Not only did he have the English version, he also had a French version, and an abridged version. At KYT 5,000 a copy, I could have bargained lower but it was still a fair price, considering he was the gatekeeper, literally, and a copy cost significantly less than USD 1 to produce.

Collection of votive stupas, Bagan Plains

From one ancient structure to another, the cool of the morning gave way to the heat of the midday sun. In the comfort of the executive Toyota, the parched dry zone looks like what it is: a forgotten land, the remains of what was once a great city before the Mongols came in and bent it to submission. The midday heat and the dry weather only made the effect even more strongly felt that you were in a land that saw much during her time.

Votive pagoda, Bagan Plains

Passing a few make-shift camps, tents and stalls, we passed travellers in their bicycles, shuffling from one shady spot to another, big minivans filled with Europeans and the occasional horse cart with a few Caucasian couples inside it. Though this is the peak season, it did not feel like it, and I was thankful for that. Few people, little impact, and an almost absence of tourists in massive busses annoying you to no end.

Khmer-style wooden pavilion, Burmese-style pagoda

The temples come in all shapes and sizes, architectural styles and building materials with slight distinctions from one to another. Some have very Khmer-style roofs, others a mishmash of Indic designs, but all anchored with a strong Burmese identity.

Ananda Temple in the distance

Then there it was: the highlight of Bagan. The great Ananda temple, built in 1105 by King Kyanzittha. My driver stopped in a shady area, where he went for a drink and a quick rest, as he told me again to be weary of the peddlers who will try all and sundry to get you to buy stuff.

Entering the intricate and ornate ancient arcade, I was teased through the arches on the majesty of the place. Small stupas and lone Bodhi trees in the courtyard, bells in corners by the pavilions, and an aura of importance to the site, all lend to the effect of drama and statement.

Restoration work, Ananda Temple

But I sought to prolong this little lease, heading directly in to the temple itself. Through the south doorways, I noticed restoration work being done. Clear white plaster against the walls, as artisans smooth out each layer before drawing their murals. Then there, past the first antechamber, the great space dominated by a standing Buddha, one of four facing the cardinal directions.

Kasappa Buddha, south sanctum, Ananda Temple

In all its glitter and gold, there amidst the dark inner sanctum lit by votive candles and a few spotlights, stood Kasappa Buddha, the third enlightened one of the present age. Word has it the entire statue is made of a bronze-gold alloy, whereas the other Buddha images are teak gilded with gold. Within the corridors, two passageways surround the interior, each with openings to let in the light, just enough light to illuminate the passageways but dark enough to give it an air of mystery.

Interior corridor, Ananda Temple

The interior is a lot cooler than the outside, and cooler than a few other temples and pagodas I went to. Legend has it that eight monks described the Nandamula Temple caves they went to in the Himalayas to King Kyanzittha. So impressed was he that he asked them to design a temple which could replicate the caves and cool environment in the hot Bagan Plains. So impressed was King Kyanzittha by the finished product, he had the eight monks killed to prevent another similar temple to be built elsewhere.

Ananda Temple and arcade

Having explored the interior, I decided to admire the exterior. Finding a suitable exit, I walked out to the midday sun, my hat providing shade and a slight feel of an archaeologist walking through ruins of a once forgotten city about me. There, I gazed upwards, the top of the spire gilded gold, glittering in the midday sun. Smaller spires paid homage to the central spire, evoking the great central tower and smaller spires of the transepts of great medieval cathedrals.

Ananda Temple, Burmese monks

Outside, a few travellers were admiring the architecture, as locals milled by, ambivalent towards both tourists and used to their ancient heritage they see every day. A few Buddhist monks, in their characteristic burgundy-robes walked by, and a few decided to stop to take pictures with and of their majestic temple.

Ananda Temple, restoration work ongoing

From the outside, the mishmash of styles is evident, with the Indian-inspired spire, local Mon-inspired entrances and European arcades. The process of restoration was ongoing, with the exterior being scraped and a new layer of plaster applied, giving the building and restored sections an almost otherworldly sheen.

By now, the midday sun and almost four hours of temple hopping took its toll. I was not hungry, but needed a proper rest to recharge. Thankfully, the Thamada Gate Hotel was just next to the Ananda Temple, so I went in, checked-in and sat down for lunch and 2 servings of 1 litre bottle of water. I must add: the pool was very inviting amidst the midday heat.