Phuket - Part 3 - Horse Riding & Capes

A week in the Amanpuri Phuket does sound like heaven. Sure, you can laze around in your massive villa, enjoy skinny dipping regardless of the time of day in your private pool or get a tan on a private beach shared with one other ultra-luxury resort. Yet there are times when you just need to get out and explore.

Andaman Sea from the Amanpuri facing Bangtao Beach

Which is exactly what I did on occasion during my stay, as I tend to get cabin fever being cooped up too long regardless of the luxurious surroundings. I may enjoy my creature comforts, but I still have to explore a bit.

So, being in close proximity to the resort enclave of Laguna, on Bang Tao Beach, surely there must be a few activities geared towards their target clientele. A friend told me to sample horse riding on the beach, and one of two facilities is located right at the entrance to the Laguna enclave: the Phuket International Horse Club.

Prices were fair for one hour, one and a half hours and two hour rides, with the one hour ride at THB 900, one and a half hour ride at THB 1,500 and two hours at THB 1,800. My first ride was the one hour option, as I wanted to reacquaint myself with riding.

This was in the late afternoon, just before the rainclouds were rolling in and the midday sun all but absent. Usually, a booking is required but considering this was the beginning of the monsoon season, ergo the low season, I just went in and it was only me and a couple on this fine morning.

Trooper and his sense of humour

My horse, Trooper, is a beautiful young chestnut steed, with an occasionally lazy trot until he reaches the beach, then he gets excited. With my trainer-cum-assistant, we went on a slow, leisurely stroll from the stables along the pavement along Lagoon Road, past green spaces, an elephant riding facility and a gated residential community before passing through the Dusit Thani Laguna Resort side road that led straight to the beach.

View from Trooper and another set of hooves on sand

And then the fun started. We trotted up and down the beach, occasionally going on a full gallop as a light drizzle came down. My white linen shirt was already wet from sweat so the small bits of accumulated rainfall did not make too much of a difference. I got my balance on, foothold proper and thigh ‘grip’ right while brushing up on my one-two-one riding technique.

Sadly, I could not use my wide-brim hat as, for insurance purposes I had to use a riding helmet. For my ride the next day in the late afternoon for the sunset ride, I also learnt my lesson not to use hiking shoes and should have asked for proper riding boots.

The sunset ride the next day was fun. I set off at 1630 for a one-half hour ride, with riding boots on and opted against riding pants despite the slight saddle burn from using shorts the day before. I noticed two couples this time, an elegant middle aged couple finishing their ride as I went to the beach looking at one with the horse, and another couple on the beach: the guy looked like a proper polo player, comfortable on his ride with quintessential polo shirt with collar upturned as his partner was walking next to her horse, perhaps not used to having her legs so wide astride the saddle.

Against the setting sun, a rider rides along

Trotting along the beach, we encountered young girls who were mesmerized by the horse as I casually rode past them, curious beach bar goers taking pictures of a rider against the sunset and managed to maintain my balance and keep the horse calm as an overly excited dog almost spooked Trooper.

Considering I was a returning client, the manager gave me a 10% discount on the ride and naturally I went for a two hour ride the next day, just to get my fill.

Promthep Cape, southern tip, Phuket

Formations and 'sculpture,' tip of Promthep Cape

But in between the rides, which SSM did not participate in considering he is not a fan of horse riding, we did explore the island a bit. We drove down the coast from Surin down to Promthep Cape, were I rediscovered the beauty of the cape, and discovered a little known path which led straight to the southern tip of Phuket, with sacred trees and rock formations that look like fairy castles, and a few altars to the local deities.

Pomegranate Martini & Apple-Lemongrass Martini, Zazada Bar

And of course this being an island, we had to enjoy at least a drink or two at a beach bar, though we restricted this to establishments with close proximity to the Amanpuri. Surin Beach has a nice selection of beach bars, with Catch Beach Club and Zazada Beach Club being my two favourites, Zazada especially with their happy hour. Surin also happens to be a favourite with weddings, with 3 wedding ceremonies during our week long stay.

Sunset from Catch Beach Club, Surin Beach, Phuket

My first trip to Phuket without diving didn’t feel that odd. It also did not feel like too much of a waste by staying within close proximity to the resort and doing stuff other that lounging, tanning and just lazing at the villa.

Phuket International Riding Club, Lagoon Rd, Laguna Phuket, Bangtao Beach, Phuket; +66 81 968 3187, last ride at 1730 for sunset ride. Look for the two horse statues on the left before the Laguna ‘gate.’

Instagram: @jasonanom

Phuket - Part 2 - Amanpuri Phuket

With a week at a villa in the Amanpuri, what is one to do? Especially during the off-diving season when the sea is all choppy with whitecaps and rain might just kill whatever plans you have for a decent dive? Phuket is after all more than just sun, sand and sea.

Caution: Amanpuri Phuket

There is also that other ‘S’: spa. Our first experience with Aman products was the amenities in our villa, and we came to love the insect repellant, infused with lemon grass, which we bought in abundance in the end.

The Spa at the Amanpuri is set across the road from the main lobby pavilions, with numerous smaller pavilions and side rooms for complete privacy during treatments while still enjoying beautiful views of the Andaman Sea and Bangtao Beach.

Entrance to the Aman Spa, overlooking Bangtao Beach

It feels very zen-like, very calming, and very decadent, especially with the chocolate spa treatments. Yes, you can actually lick a layer of rich dark (or milk if you prefer) chocolate off your body, if you so desire. Well, that last part I say with qualification: I assume you can do it.

Pavilions centered around fountains, Aman Spa

The Library is just beautiful. One of the larger resort libraries I have seen and a fine one in its own building. While not as bright and airy as the library at the Four Seasons Langkawi, it still boasts an impressive collection and skylight with layers of teak furniture and dark wood throughout.

Library, Amanpuri Phuket

To add in the decadence, even if you are the only person in the library, they will still furnish the place, extremely discreetly, with a platter of fresh fruits. They come and go as quietly as cats. The two areas of the library: the reading room and the lounge are partitioned in such a way there is privacy yet openness to the space.

Lounge, Library, Amanpuri Phuket

Tea Pavilion by the main pool, Amanpuri Phuket

What made the stay all the more interesting would be the afternoon tea served in the tea pavilion, daily at 4pm. The tea pavilion overlooks the pool and Pansea Beach. It has a nice selection of savory Thai snacks that look like mini crepes with filling made in a hot pan with options of tea, lemongrass being my favourite. You can recline on the veranda or terrace on comfy sofas while fanning yourself lounging around.

But of course all this decadence and luxury may make some people, me included, feel a little sluggish and a bit too relaxed. This is where the fitness centre comes in. It is located on top of the hill on the top of the peninsula and is quite a trek and a warm-up if you decide to walk, hike or jog from your villa. Hence, the buggy ride to the fitness centre might just make you guilty enough to work out that bit more extra.

View from the treadmill, Amanpuri Phuket

Treadmills overlooking Andaman Sea, Amanpuri Phuket

From the outside, it looks unimposing, but this is the hallmark of Aman Resorts: understated luxury. Once you enter, the view from the top just draws you in to the machines. Good machines, well maintained, with patrons who know how to rerack their weights. Yes, unracked messy weights are a pet peeve. The view of the sea from the treadmills or cycle machines can make you work out longer than usual as you enjoy the view.

Then you realize the fitness centre is actually spread over two levels. There is a studio with funky stretch machines, a yoga platform and, if something a little more local is down your alley, a very wide, open and well-appointed Muay Thai gym that opens out to the green and sea below. Even the toilets feel luxurious, but then again, this is the Amanpuri, so why not make the mundane that much more elegantly luxurious without being garishly ostentatious?

Now that you had your fill of treatments, readings and tea rounded up with a decent workout to create a furnace to burn all that delicious food cooked by your in-house chef or savoured outside working as the perfect fuel, surely that is enough to satisfy a stay-in without ever leaving the gates of this Versailles?

Pansea Beach, Amanpuri Phuket

Pool, Pansea Beach, Amanpuri Phuket

Well, there is more: Pansea Beach. It is a small beach, shared by only one other equally luxurious resort, The Surin Phuket. There are a few cabanas, another pool, wait staff that somehow materialize just when you realize you want something and a sports facility. Kayaking was so tempting but there was no way I could kayak in the occasional rain. Ultimate Frisbee was an option, as was beach volleyball. In short, the usual beach sports, but somehow not as enjoyable without more people. It was definitely a private beach for private, individual sports (like kayaking) or a retreat from the masses.

Sunset, Sea and Saddle: horse riding on Bangtao Beach

Which makes you wonder: would I ever want to leave my villa with my own infinity pool where I can skinny dip as and when I want, or soak in the decadence the hotel has to offer? When there is the option to explore the island a bit and enjoy a round of horse riding, one does need to go out and get in with ‘reality’ once in a while. That is a story for later.

Phuket - Part 1 - Amanpuri Phuket

[Making a slight modification to the site now: will be doing reports on both the trip and the actual accommodation. I promise I will still be a decent read.] 

View from Qatar Airways to Malaysia Airlines A333 and Air France B772

A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to stay at one of the most luxurious and self-indulgent resorts in Southeast Asia: the Amanpuri Phuket. Yes, I know, Phuket does not exactly give the image of ultra-luxury and seclusion when what come to mind are ‘beached whales’ or fratboys going on a ruckus, but those are the common beaches. The Amanpuri is so set apart from the rest, physically and in other respects, you need not rub shoulders with those you do not want to, apart from at the airport.

The Amanpuri is located on Pansea Beach, just the next cove and beach up from Surin Beach, itself a nice quiet upmarket spot, and right before Bangtao Beach, famously known as the Laguna resorts area.

When I went to Phuket, it was conveniently the day after the military announced the coup, on 22 May. My friend John in Chiang Rai told me of how his area was under heavy military surveillance and whatnot, including armed guards just down his street. Another friend R had plans to go to Pattaya but eventually changed his mind due to the turmoil in Bangkok just up the road. Both of them told me to be cautious. I joked about how I had a horse and a boat ready to whisk me off down south and across the border to Langkawi in the event.

Loo with a view. I promise this is not from the passenger seat.

I flew on Qatar Airways, and I must admit, if there was an award for best airplane toilet, they would win it. As you go about your business, you get a view out the window in their A330. Not your usual blocked out window with foldable baby-table in the way. I admit I went to the loo twice, just because.

Upon arrival at Phuket, it felt like business as usual. The new international terminal was under construction and there were a few modifications to the arrivals corridor from my previous visit. Inside immigration, one would be forgiven if you did not know a coup just occurred: no heightened security and the immigration personnel were trainees.

On approach to Phuket International Airport, Koh Naka in the middle

We had a limo pick-up in a BMW 7 Series, and that was the start of my ‘Fall of Versailles’ routine. Completely oblivious by design or intention, I did not notice any heightened security, no army presence, nothing to indicate a country in transition. The only hint were Thai radio stations playing patriotic tunes with a military beat that would not be out of place in any military parade.

Granted, I was in Bangkok the month before and even then, you could feel a slight tension in the air despite feeling safe in the knowledge that if you stay away from trouble, it will not find you. Then again, Phuket is so far removed from the tug of war up in the Centre, they would rather focus on their tourism and daily lives than ideological altercations.

Reception LobbyPavilion, Amanpuri Phuket

At the Amanpuri, it really did feel as if you were entering a different world, this time purposely designed to seclude and remove you from everything. Amanpuri does literally mean ‘Palace of Peace,’ being the combination of the Malay-Balinese words ‘Aman’ meaning ‘peace’ and ‘puri’ meaning ‘palace.’ There was a slip road past Surin Beach to the left and no signage. No grand entranceway but rather a quiet, tree-lined and canopy-shaded road that gives the sense of arrival, and once you are there, you know you arrived. A palace to set to seclude from the hoi polloi. Versailles much?

Amanpuri main pool, restaurant sala to the left, bar on the right

The lobby consists of reception pavilions, tea and dining pavilions, library and meeting pavilions, all centered around a pool and courtyard that leads down stairs towards Pansea Beach and the Andaman Sea. You could either walk around to your villa, or in my case, be whisked in a very nice buggy; not your usual golf or airport buggy but one which looks like a Mini Cooper with the doors taken off and stretched.

Andaman Sea and stairs to Pansea Beach, Amanpuri Phuket

We stayed in the residential part of the Amanpuri, on the north side of the peninsula facing Bangtao Beach and Laguna. Going up and down the terrain of the peninsula, all I could think of was the warm-up to the gym on the top of the hill on the top of the peninsula.

Reception terrace, Amanpuri Villa

Top: Lounge Sala roof, 2nd floor, 1st floor

Dining Sala

At our villa, we were welcomed by our housekeeper, our chef and the hotel general manager at the villa reception area. Smiles abound and a great welcome, and truth be told, I was slowly being converted in to a fan, wait, an Amanjunkie.

Floor-to-ceiling windows, Villa room, Amanpuri

King-size bed, Villa room, Amanpuri

Our villa is a 7 bedroom villa. Yes, 7 bedroom villa, spread over four floors. The top floor was the dining and lounge pavilions or ‘salas.’ The second floor was the garage, kitchen and 3 rooms. The first floor had 4 rooms. The ground floor had the infinity pool which is nicer than the ‘main’ pool, reception area, massage deck, media pavilion and help staff quarters. Yes, the help stay on site. And there is a lift if the stairs feel like a chore.

Bath and door to shower, Villa, Amanpuri

Vanity, Villa, Amanpuri

The rooms are spaciously appointed, with floor-to-ceiling windows, extremely comfortable king bed, lounge bed, 2 walk-in wardrobes and a toilet, bath and shower with doors that open out to the terrace outside.

Walk-in wardrobe, Villa, Amanpuri

Our one week stay has just begun, and as luck would have it, my diving plans went south when the sea was not quite agreeable. Oh well, nothing much to do apart from staying at the hotel or explore what Phuket has to offer, which included very good horse riding just down the beach. Our housekeeper Kung Ae and chef Kung On made sure our stay was memorable.

Infinity pool overlooking Andaman Sea, Villa, Amanpuri

Hello Kitten, Amanpuri

And so did 2 kittens that entertained us throughout.

Airport transfer between Phuket International Airport and the Surin/Bangtao area is THB 700 one way, either going up or going down. As my previous visit, I had a car. If intending to stay in Phuket for more than 3 nights and you plan to explore, rent a car as the taxis are controlled, have no meters and are ridiculously expensive. Andaman Car Rental is a good bet. I personally do not recommend small motorcycles or mopeds, lots of hills.

p.s. look for me on Instagram @jasonanom

Putrajaya - Red Bull Air Race

If there is one thing which I have not done quite properly over the past few months, it would be posting. Travel and stuff got in the way, and general laziness, but 2 weeks ago, I attended something which I heard of and found quite interesting. It became all the more interesting when a round was held in Putrajaya, of all places.

Red Bull Air Race Putrajaya ticket

This was the Red Bull Air Race, Putrajaya, held over the weekend of 17 and 18 May. Tickets were fairly priced: MYR 85 for Qualifying on 17 May, MYR 129 for Finals and RM169 for both days. I opted for both days.

Day 1 was fun, albeit chaotic. There was a slight hiccup when ticket holders of Zone A were denied crossing the bridge that links Zone B and the main Race area from Zone B due to safety reasons. A no show of buses to transport those stranded while being denied the option to enter Zone B, which I believe is the same ticket category, of course created quite a number disgruntled ticket holders. In due time, we were allowed entry to Zone B, which while on that day itself sounded like a consolation, on Race Day became a Holy Grail.

Granted, weather-wise the day itself did prove to be a bit of a downer. It rained in the morning, and of course the qualifying rounds had to be postponed from the scheduled 1130 to 1330. When the time came, the rain stopped, but light intermittent drizzle though in miniscule amounts and gloomy overcast weather gave me the impression of a dampener for the day.

Flying in on low approach past the Seri Gemilang Bridge

Yet, the image of acrobatic planes doing their stuff, flying in low on approach over the ‘gates’ of the Seri Gemilang Bridge after being granted 'smoke on' to enter, then making zips and turns, steep ascents and teeth clenching dips did much to keep me stuck at my perch. Cloudy weather disregarded, but eventually Sol did shine through the cleared-up skies. It was then did I have an appreciation for the sport.

Steep climb up past the finish gate, after the first turn

Day 2 was more interesting. After learning from the mistakes of Day 1, I found out where the shuttle buses were, despite the lack of signs, and that saved me quite a penny from the fixed charge taxi trip to the site. This time, we got to Zone A proper, which though larger than Zone B, did not afford quite the same vantage point as Zone B. In fact, by now I longed to return to Zone B having had a taste of it the day before.

Finishing after two rounds towards the Finish Gate

It was far busier than Qualifying day, and had the feel of a Red Bull-infused Sunday Picnic, with options of ‘orange juice,’ soft drinks and random snacks. All that was missing were a few bottles of vodka and jaegermeister (which I shall neither confirm nor deny bringing in quietly to the grounds).

Despite not getting a full view of the course or a dramatic approach like in Zone B, Zone A did offer a full sight of the acrobatics on display, which in a way made up for it.

Steep curve viewed from Zone B

The numerous acrobatic planes zipping up and down, making interesting turns all at quite some speed was truly astounding, though what got more interesting was when a finalist in the final 4 was disqualified as ‘Did Not Finish’ for going at 201 knots, 1 knot above the approved approach speed of 200 knots.

Having had this taste of the Red Bull Air Show, safe to say I will be keeping a keen eye on this sport, especially if the aerial site is held in stunning surrounds with dramatic backdrop. Word has it the finals in China might be held in Shanghai. The location is yet to be confirmed at time of writing.

Two planes dancing above Putrajaya Lake

Plane acrobatics in Pudong/Puxi, anyone?

p.s. there is a much better write up on this by my friend Stefan Seville. Honoured to have a mention in his article.

http://www.airshowsreview.com/Red_Bull_Air_Race_Malaysia.htm

Kuching - Climbing Mount Santubong

Mount Santubong, on the Damai Peninsula, about 30 minutes drive from downtown Kuching, is 810m above sea level. Sounds tame, but looks can be deceiving, as after a fairly gentle gradient up, it becomes a serious climb, with scaling required where the grade can reach 75*, in short almost vertical. That is why I flew in over the Easter Weekend to Kuching with my Camelbak.

Having done some prior research, apparently, it takes 3 hours to reach the summit from the Bukit Puteri Entrance, without stops or delays, and just slightly less to come down. It takes an extra hour from the Restaurant Entrance just down the road, as you will be passing the aforementioned waterfall. Both good starting points on a mountain that inspired Alfred Wallace's 'Sarawak Law' during his stay here.

Intent on doing the summit directly, DC and I chose the Bukit Puteri trail, and after paying RM8 at the entrance and parking our car by the side of the road, we started our ascent at just after 0930. The entrance is manned by the same people as the restaurant, and they will watch out for your car in addition to logging your details. Officially, this site is a National Park, and fees are collected by the Sarawak Forestry Corporation, so this subcontracting is somewhat questionable, but at time of writing has yet to be satisfactorily explained by anyone.

Ant Highway, goes on for a few metres, along summit trail

This trail is a single shot up along the ridge, with nice views of Santubong Village, the Santubong River and Kuching City on your right, with nature to your left. I was tempted to run up, the trail runner within keen to hone his skills, but DC, despite being muscular and a regular gym goer, talked me in to keeping a steady pace. I compromised with a somewhat fast steady pace, intent on reaching the summit in under 3 hours.

Mt Sejinjang, Pandak and Panjang beaches, Salak River in back;
Santubong Village and Santubong Estuary in foreground

After under an hour from the start point, we reached the split. The route to the left goes to the jungle trail, waterfalls and restaurant entrance. Upwards is the summit. After a brief stop for DC to get some air, we ploughed on ahead.

Shortly after the split, the trail became steeper, and we bumped in to our first group of hikers. After pleasantries, we pressed on ahead, to be greeted by what was the first of a few somewhat challenging ascents. At 30-50* grade, we had to really hike up, with the aid of ropes for some, or makeshift steps from soil and roots for others.

Trail map, not to scale or trail, Mt Santubong

Here, we reached the second of the pit stops, and a view point somewhat obscured by a rock. This was just under F7, at ‘Viewpoint 2.’ After a brief stop and some picture taking, we both decided to send pictures out to make some of our friends envious. I am more surprised that here, in the middle of dense jungle on a mountain, I had excellent BlackBerry coverage, even better than in some parts of KLCC.

Santubong River, Mt Sejinjang, Kuching City;
seen from Viewpoint 2, Mt Santubong

We ploughed on ahead, with more ropes to guide us along the steeper bits. The entire thing made me think of the Hash Challenge trail running marathon I did last year. As we were climbing up, we both kept yakking away to keep our mind occupied and I retold my entire 42k Hash Challenge story to DC. If I could do 42k up and down mountains in just under 11 hours, this 10k return trip should be doable. He called me a crazy mountain goat effortlessly scaling up rock face.

The steep bits done, DC hinted that if it kept getting steeper, he would turn back. I told him we were close by the summit, which was true. There, at F8, at 1,561 ft, we had a view of the city, a clear view of the summit within reach, and voices just beyond the trees. We caught up with a big group.

After a small bar of chocolate to keep us on the move, we continued on. I conveniently neglected to tell DC that there were steeper bits, wooden climbs, valleys and sheer rock face coming along.

Steep climbs, boulders and ropes; Mt Santubong

Within short order, we reached the first bit of the really steep bits, maybe 60* grade. We caught up with the group just ahead of us. After holding on to rope ladders and plank stairs, we were right behind them, and DC, sensing my agitation, told me to slow down and wait for them to clear.

Roots and trees and a deceptive incline

That I did, as DC took that opportunity to slow down slightly, catch his breath and drink some water. I told him to ration his 1 liter as much as possible. He somehow did not listen to my advice of taking 1.5 litres. After waiting for clearing, we scaled up the rope ladders along bounders and sheer face, careful with our footing and wondering how they decided on spacing the ladder handles.

At F11, we bumped in to yet another group, this time making their way down. This tested my resolve for zen, as we patiently waited for 3 big groups to clear: one before us waiting to climb, one in the middle taking pictures on the mid-rope landing and another going down from the top.

Steep walk down, Mt Santubong

While waiting, we met this lone Caucasian guy descending. He told us that we had an hour to the summit, and that there were a lot of ropes and roots to hold on to. So, after 5 minutes of agonizing wait, we went up, and taking advantage of the less steep and wider hold area, by-passed the group on the open side and went to the last ‘basecamp,’ F12. There were a few people who just sat by this summit, content with this height, with the summit-proper was just in reach.

And there, with the goal in sight and determination filling my very being, the moment DC reached the summit of F12, I gave him just enough time to catch his breath and have a sip before we did the home stretch.

Just as we went along another steep descent and ascent, we bumped in to another group. The leader informed us that we had 45 minutes to an hour to reach the top and advised us to rest and take it slow as it was basically a vertical climb. DC and I had other ideas: I wanted to reach my aim of the summit in under 3 hours and DC wanted this challenge to be over and done with.

After the steep descent and ascent which was somewhat technical for efficient climbing, at F13, we reached the most challenging park of the climb: the 75* grade. This was almost vertical, with rope ladders and roots your only foothold against solid rock. This was not a walk in a park.

Damai Peninsula, Damai Golf Club and South China Sea,
from Mt Santubong summit

Once at F14, I called out to DC, who kept going strong, and told him we were close. As I let him rest momentarily, I went up to recce the rest, and before long, I told him to hurry up. The stop at F14 was basically the slight pause before the fanfare in Handel’s Zadok the Priest.

Santubong River, Kuching City in the distance, Mt Santubong summit

Flag of Sarawak, Mt Santubong summit

'Welcome Arch,' Mt Santubong summit

Cloud cover, Mt Santubong Summit

Immediately after F14 after scaling up boulders and stuff, lay the top of the ridge, the summit, F15. The views were spectacular. The Damai Peninsula before us, the South China Sea, the Santubong River, coves and bays and beaches. There was a small inscription at one of the boulders at the top, commemorating the legend of ‘Datuk Merpati.’ A carved head lay hidden somewhere amidst the foliage.

At the top, at 810m, we explored the narrow ridge. There was a small pool, which had some water, and a thatched hut. There was even a topiary archway and of course, a flag at the top. The view above the cloud line was beautiful, with the City of Kuching laid before us.

Santubong River Estuary and cloud-line

After a few minutes of contemplation, we made our way down. Just as we did, a group of Caucasians came up. One was a blonde guy, shirtless with a heart monitor, determined as if he was racing up. A few steps behind him, another blonde guy with a girl, both looking very fit. Trailing behind them, another Caucasian girl and just a few steps behind her, a Norwegian man who called out to his wife at F13. These were serious climbers, no joking here, all complete with gear.

I admired their determination and resolve, and their almost single-mindedness to reach the summit. They, I told DC, were the proper Mountain Goats, as I was all but a Mountain Kid, still getting his rock climbing feet stable.

View on the descent: The Serapi Range in the back, middle is Pandak
and Panjang Beaches and parts of Santubong Village in foreground

At the ranger’s office, as we signed out, the park ranger was impressed at our speed, and asked if we ran up. I told him we did not, just a regular, steady but brisk-walk pace. He told me we did it faster than the most. How Alfred Wallace did it during Sir Charles Brooke's reign in the State, considering the steepness and lack of trails then, is in itself an example of the toughness of British explorers in the Victorian Age.

He even asked me if I bumped in to the Caucasian group going up and I told him they did. After explaining to him the heart monitor, he tells me they do the climb very regularly. After congratulating us on our speedy ascent, we drove a short hop to Damai Central to get some drinks. DC was truly knackered and was wondering where all my energy came from. I just shrugged as I left him in the car, checking my GPS tracker on our hike as I walked to the shops to get us drinks.

All in all, the numbers on the climb of Mount Santubong:

Ascent: 0930, summit 1205; Descent: 1215, station 1405.

2 hours and 35 minutes to ascend, including stops, delays and chatter; 1 hour 50 minutes to descend, including chatter and an errand for fellow climbers; 10 minutes on the summit and walking around.

I used Nogago Tracks, very efficient especially on the BlackBerry 10.