Saturday, January 30, 2016

Bangkok - The Vertical Marathon

What do you do when you and a good mate are transplanted from Europe and based, for the moment, in Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok respectively? Go up to visit him. What do you do when the two of you usually do something active when together, i.e. run along the Amstel whenever you pop by to Amsterdam? Do something athletic. And what would this friend suggest in this exotic locale? A vertical marathon.

Now, neither I nor Dr J have done a vertical marathon before. It is an annual thing at the Banyan Tree Bangkok apparently. Usually, we go up the Banyan Tree to Moon Bar for drinks on the rooftop. This time, we were supposed to, erm, use human power in place of mechanical power.

Without much thought or research, I signed up. This was 5 days before the event. The next day, the day before my flight, I decided to read up on it. This is what I discovered:
And this is why you should do research before committing
-          17th edition
-          8 November 2015
-          Race up all 61 floors
-          1,093 steps

And of course, my male bravado and I set our sights on ‘time to beat: 6 minutes 35 seconds.’

And of course, there was a clear absence of training. Mornings, after breakfast, we’d talk about the need to train. After lunch, we’d talk about training, after a swim (which counts! We do laps!) and chill by the pool with the looming Banyan Tree Bangkok tower just in front of us. Come evening, we’d have drinks with friends, who thought us daft for doing this, and again, realize our clear absence of training.

So, the Friday before, after lunch and a swim, we decided we seriously needed to train. Now, our residence is just about 35 floors. We could not start from ground, due to security, so we side-stepped a few floors, and a confused-looking cleaner, and started from the 14th floor.

-          First 10 floors: Yay!
-          Next 5 floors: Come on, Dr, get those long legs working
-          Last 6 floors: Why did we sprint on the first 10?

With our Friday lesson learnt, we decided to try again on Saturday, after lunch. We paced ourselves properly, kept a steady rhythm and timed ourselves. Just under 5 minutes for 20 floors. Yeap, doable. We found our pace, knew our strengths and aimed for 15 minutes to reach the top.
The Navigator and Dr J, all smiles and grins: but will we smile after 1,093 steps?
Come Sunday morning, we were excited. We woke up early, got semi-ready, walked down the street to the Banyan Tree and got our kit. Naturally, we wondered who the insane man was who did the entire thing in 6 minutes and 35 seconds. I looked around and I saw a Slavic looking fellow, in full triathlon gear. I pointed him out to Dr J. We agreed: it had to be him.

So, come the ‘countdown,’ we had a brass band playing to get us in the mood. Some people were clearly excited. Some people were nervous. Some had GoPros strapped on them. Some were colour coded. Some had no clue at all. We were in the latter.

One hiccup came up: Dr J and I were in different classes. I was in the 20 – 39 class, he in the above 40, despite him just reaching that pivotal ‘change in age class.’ We were hoping to race up together to keep our pace and support the other. We tried, and I delayed my entry to the start line, to be the last in my group and him the first in his.

It almost worked. A race warden saw me, so I got slotted in a group before. We wished each other luck as I just took it in stride while my fellow racers were all geared up. First thing in my mind: pace. Pace. PACE, YOU FOOL. I also, naturally, targeted and numbered my competitors (and yes in the blink of an eye, I turned from casual indifferent observer into a Type A Top Gun jet pilot).

GO! Went the warden. *Beep* went the buzzer. Zoom went the racers. WHOA went my head.

We ran past the brass band. I had to restrain and keep a steady pace as Bloke A – E sprinted. G – I decided to keep a steady pace. If only the brass band had a bag-pipe, I would be in heaven. There is something about the haunting deep melody of the sheep’s gut which stirs something deep down. But, alas, this brass band would do.

We ran past the lobby I knew well. We ran up a side entrance to an emergency exit I didn’t know exist. And so it began, up the stairs. You could hear the pitter patter of shoes, huffing and puffing and deep breaths. I had concerns over ventilation, but the sight of large fans blowing in to the shaft allayed my fears.

There were regular drink stops, and by the 5th floor, I saw people clamouring for a drink. I went on, not wanting a distraction. I was not to drink until I reached the rooftop. Preferably, I wanted a vodka martini. I stayed close to the center of the shaft, imagining my body a well-oiled machine, as I used my legs to propel me up, my hands on my thighs if needed for an added push, and fighting the urge to use the handrail.

By the 10th floor, a few of Blokes A – E were already slowing down. One already stopped. A few flights more, another was using the handrail for leverage. A few more, one was standing at a drinks stand, clearly wondering what he got himself in to.

By the 30th floor, I heard the dread of all dreads: someone vomiting. Woe befall me if I dare step on it.

By the 40th floor, the last few of Blokes A – E, including some of the runners ahead of me, were either slowing down, walking up, hauling themselves up or sitting on the floor, catching their breath. Random guys looked dejected or outright out of their elements.

Truth be told, the closer I got to the 50th floor, the faster I went. There were less people now, and those at the top clearly had the summit in mind. So I picked up the pace, in anticipation for the top floor, in full knowledge and with autopilot on, that once on the top floor lift lobby, I had two more terraces and mezzanines to contend with.

And then, there it was! I saw the light, literally, as I approached the doors to the terrace. There before me was Bangkok in all her glory: Silom by my feet, the Thai sky ahead, Surya shining his rays on all. For a brief moment, I slowed down to savour, before realizing ‘NO! GET GOING!’
Shiny medal, sunny day, clear vistas of Bangkok: good combo

The last few steps, and there the finish line. It was quiet-ish. A giant cartoon mascot was urging me on, as was a very cheery cheerleader. I crossed the line with a hop, a scotch and a grin as I got my medal. I actually could go for another round!
The obligatory selfie after crossing the finishing line. It filled up fast.
With drink in hand, I looked around. A few of the guys were in their adrenaline high. I knew how they felt: I was in it. A few others looked knackered, while a few more were on the ground, exhausted beyond belief.
But this bloke takes the cake: GoPro attached to his person the whole time.
I roamed around, admiring the view I am accustomed to viewing with martini in hand. Done with the view, I went back to the finish line to wait for Dr J. Not long after, I saw him, and we congratulated ourselves at the top. Of course, we had to do the obligatory selfie to post on social media: our subtle way of guilting our friends who chose to lay in on a Sunday morning instead of running up to a rooftop bar.
Squinting, thanks to the sun, but still all smiles: all that is missing is a vodka martini and a gin + tonic
What did we win? Apart from a medal, bragging rights: we earned our drinks at Vertigo and Moon Bar no. We ran up the Banyan Tree Bangkok where most sane people would use the lift.

And they say running doesn’t bring you anywhere.

Our final time: me at 10 minutes 59 seconds, at 44/158 for my category. Dr J came in at 12 minutes 20 seconds, and 43/98 for his category. Would we do it again? I’ll let you know.I still think I could have gone faster, had I not gotten distracted.
Somehow, not as fulfilling without using the stairs up 61 floors.
2 weeks later, I took the elevator for an evening drink. 


Oh, who beat 6’35”? Mr Slavic Triathlete.

Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Langkawi - from a kayak

I have noticed two camps around New Year’s: those who insist on having a resolution and those who see no point in it. Again, the ‘resolutionists’ camps split in to two: the resolutions you could do without too much effort and the resolutions which seem like noble, albeit lofty endeavours. One part of my resolution was to bring a certain charity project to fruition. Noble, but requires quite the effort. The other resolution, and this I decided at dawn on 1 January itself on the terrace overlooking the bay, was to kayak to an island out there in the Andaman Sea.
New Year's morning from the villa, overlooking Ular Island in centre, Dayang Bunting Island to the left and Singa Besar Island to the right, from Teluk Baru bay
So, like any ‘sane’ man, after lunch, I left my friends at the villa, including my partner who insisted I do my silly youthful stuff as he lounges on the terrace, and went straight for the beach. Now, for the past 3 years, we made it a point to go to Langkawi as an escape from the chaos of NYE in big cities. For the past 3 years, I always sat on the same terrace, looked out at the same sea and thought of my own little pied à terre out on the horizon.
Tengah Beach, and Cenang Beach just beyond, with Mat Cincang Mountain in the background
Our villa is a 5 minute drive from Tengah Beach, and Tengah Beach is a quiet stretch of sand, away from the hustle and bustle of nearby Chenang Beach. It also has a nice assortment of watersports vendors. Naturally, I thought they had a kayak. Sadly, the nice lady in the headscarf said she didn’t have one, and the only kayak available on this side of the island is at Cenang Beach.

After a call, she got a contact, who came by and guided me to his little sports hut on the beach. There, amidst the hustle and bustle and hung over partygoers on Cenang Beach were 2 kayaks amidst an array of jet skis. “YES”! I thought to myself, as all I heard was random mumbling of his briefing while I kept daydreaming of me paddling the open sea while getting a good back workout.

He gave me a life vest, though he did not insist on me using it. My male bravado and I thought it unnecessary, so I placed it on the bow of the kayak. After getting the kayak to about knee’s length above water, I paddled out. So the adventure begins.
From the kayak, looking towards Cenang Beach
Of course, something will go awry somewhere. First came the jet skis. Good god are they a menace at times. Zipping past, thinking they own the waves. I paddled straight on, ignoring them at times, pausing at others, wary of the wake their jet skis will leave. Keeping a steady keel with numerous big wakes from over eager jetskiers is harder than it sounds.

Next came the wind. I do not mind wind. Being a regular visitor to Edinburgh and living in Newcastle, one would be very accustomed to great strong winds. Wind can add an extra challenge as you hike up Arthur’s Seat or the Northumbrian coast. Wind can also provide an extra challenge or annoying obstacle for a kayaker, depending on your point of view. Why? Because of the added waves, that’s why.

All this would not be complete without the waves coming from the sea either. Now, it has been about a decade and a half since I last formally saw physics equations, but out there, in the sea, with numerous waves and angles and pitches coming in, all I could see were wavelength equations and me trying to find the perfect angle to plough on through.

Thus, day 1 of my kayak adventure ended up with an aborted attempt to paddle from Cenang Beach to Rebak Kechil Island. I blame the waves.

Though it was not without adventure, no! As I was paddling on, I spotted this stunning yacht: “Itchy Feet.” Either a) the universe has a sense of humour and decided to caption my life, or b) the yachties on board are advertising their sea-faring lifestyle.
The yacht Itchy Feet: notice the two bicycles attached on stern
The great yacht and I made circles around each other, as I admired the boat, and the curious two bicycles attached at the back. Add on to this, a helicopter kept flying overhead, low above the water and beach.
Kayak + yacht + helicopter with the backdrop of tropical islands and open sea; makes you think of a Bond film
Now: adventurous kayaker + beautiful yacht + lone helicopter flying overhead + stunning islands and private beaches. How does that not spell out a Bond film? The soundtrack of Skyfall kept playing in my head.

One would think that I would abandon this futile attempt. Oh no. Day 2 came, and I was even more determined. First thing in the morning, I checked the clouds, the wind and the waves. Come breakfast, I sneaked a peek at the western side of the island to see the sea. Right after breakfast, I rented a kayak and set my sights on Rebak Kechil Island. That island is mine.
Rebak Kechil Island ahead, on day 2
Again, I saw the “Itchy Feet.” Again I saw the island before me. Again, the waves tried to hinder my approach. Now, the first ¾ of the way was smooth paddling. No wind, relatively calm sea in the harbour: seemed alright. And then came the sea waves. Truth be told, I was paddling too hard to compensate, so I did make a few 360 turns while correcting my bearings, but soon enough, and 25 minutes later, I reached the uninhabited island of Rebak Kechil, which for that brief moment in time, I lay claim in the name of my cat Cameron Aloysius Titus, Lord Protector and Sovereign of this little patch of sand.
The sandbanks and the yachties on the north of  'uninhabited' Rebak Kechil Island
But alas! That was not to be. The yachties claimed it first. 3 fit guys were already on the island. Still, it was big enough for 4 men. They were on the north along the sandbanks, I took the south and east with the beach facing the other islands and rocky promontory. Yes, I am making this island sound much larger than it actually is. Indulge me in my Raffles fantasy.

In the end, my New Year’s resolution ended in 1.5 days. I reached my goal of kayaking to an island in the Andaman Sea. Looking back, I don’t think it qualifies as a resolution now, considering that I was planning to do that already, and it wasn’t as ‘taxing’ as resolutions are assumed to be.
The kayak on Rebak Kechil Island looking towards the Andaman Sea and Tepor and Kentut Besar Islands
So, what was the first thing I did? Took pictures, uploaded it on Instagram and tagged it for a beach/villa/pool picture competition. I also decided to upload it on Facebook to further annoy and irritate my friends with my caption-less images. Narcissistic me also took a few selfies, just because.
'The Navigator' with his selfie on the kayak back to the main island
Not sure if I am that effective a navigator now. I can somewhat plot the path to my destination, though the route was just *slightly* circuitous thanks to circumstances. Still, a navigator who got from point A to the intended point B, with a tan and a tote filled with sand and stained with sea salt. Kayaking in the open sea off Langkawi *tick.*
From Rebak Kechil Island looking towards Langkawi Island: Tengah Beach in the middle, Cenang Beach off left
Notes: There are a few sports huts on Cenang Beach and Tengah Beach, and they cater mostly for mangrove tours, jet skis, banana boats or parasailing. The beauty of being in a small community is that everyone knows everyone else, and if you want a specific sea sport equipment and that one sport hut does not have it, ‘they have a guy.’

This specific sports hut on Cenang Beach is easily identified with the large number of jet skis parked on the beach with a (then) blue tent, and is accessible through the side street leading to the beach parking lot in front of ‘Cenang Mall.’ None of these huts have names to identify them, sadly.

Kayak rental is MYR 30/hour. Cheaper rates available for longer rentals. All the equipment are well maintained. All doubles, all open kayaks, life vests provided. Bush hat optional. Sunnies mandatory.

p.s. I would not advise taking pictures while kayaking: be mindful of waves and on-coming sea traffic

The Navigator Returns

After a long hiatus, yes, I am still here. To be honest, I was just generally preoccupied with life and a lot of movement between now and my previous post, one of the major ones being my momentary move back to the UK. For now at least, I am based back in Kuala Lumpur, and this time I better start updating the entries here.


So, a few highlights for the coming weeks: my sojourns in Europe and the few random trips I took around Southeast Asia which I meant to but never ended up writing about, among them a Bangkok from a different height, accidentally stumbling on the Camino de Santiago/St Jean Pied de Port in Antwerp and my first foray in to China.

But this time, we’ll start with something closer to home: Langkawi by kayak.

p.s. I now have an Instagram account! Look me up @jasonanom for the random selection of sights and cats.